Pants for soldiers and kings
made from different substances,
made of wool and linen together.
Deuteronomy 22: 11
"Henry IV at the Battle of the Arch on September 21, 1589" Unknown artist.
Museum stories France, Paris.
Pay attention, in what lush, but short pants the artist depicted him ...
The history of clothing. Last time we looked at the topic of stockings, which were worn by both men and women as pants in the Middle Ages. They were called chasses and looked like Indian leggins, which were assigned the English name leggings (leggins). That is, separately sewn trousers, not connected to each other. In Europe, they were sewn very narrow and, like knitted stockings, covered the entire leg to the waist. At the same time they served as footwear, as they had a leather sole. But such stockings were worn mainly by nobles. And the reason was purely commonplace. It was on top of them that chain mail stockings were put on (also highways), and later - metal armor. Underwear - bra panties, tucked into the tracks and gathered on the belt, and the tracks themselves were attached to it with straps.
It is interesting that the Scythians also wore tight-fitting trousers. In any case, it was in them that the Greeks portrayed them on their black and red-lacquered painted dishes. OK. 520-500 BC BC e. Master Epictetus.
British Museum, London
And here is the legendary Amazon as seen by the Greek master of painting. She is wearing real trousers, holding a shield with an attached patterned fabric and a quiver behind her back. The torso is protected by the classic Greek thorax - a linen carapace with shoulder pads. Ancient Greek Attic white alabastron, circa 470 BC e.
British Museum, London
But what was the common people wearing at that time in Europe?
At best, the same bre, but knee-length, and during summer work the peasants in the field often tucked them higher, pulling them with lower strings to the belt. After the labors of the righteous, they lowered them below the knees and tied them with these strings already there. In the cold season, they wore knitted woolen stockings up to the knees, and on top of all this - caftans, again up to the knees.
Interesting information about the clothes of that time, especially the folk, is given to us by the famous "The Magnificent Book of Hours of the Duke of Berry" (or "The Magnificent Book of Hours of the Duke of Berry") - an illustrated manuscript of the XNUMXth century.
It contains a cycle "Seasons" of 12 illustrations depicting entertainments of the nobility and ... peasant works against the background of ancient medieval castles. This source is very valuable, since we know that the Duke Jean of Berry commissioned its design for the miniaturists brothers Paul, Jean and Erman Limburg in 1410-1411, but it remained unfinished after their death, as well as the death of their customer in 1416, after which in the calendar part of the manuscript was supplemented by an anonymous master in the 1440-1450s.
Here is one of his miniatures, look at it carefully ...
"December". Hunting scene. On it, hunters from the duke's retinue, but clearly commoners, hunted down a deer. They wear long caftans with puffy sleeves with slits, short pants and stockings - for the left hunter, while the right one doesn't even have them, flaunts with bare legs.
"Magnificent Book of Hours of the Duke of Berry",
Condé Museum, France
"July". There are two reapers working on the field. One - in a shirt and very short shorts, on the other - apparently, also similarly short shorts, but stockings on his legs. And both are wearing wide-brimmed, most likely straw hats for sun protection.
"Magnificent Book of Hours of the Duke of Berry",
Condé Museum, France
And this is "February". The miniature was painted after 1416. And it is especially interesting, but it should be viewed at high magnification. On the lumberjack at the top right, we again see short pants and knee-length stockings, but on a man or a young man warming himself by the fire at the bottom left behind a woman in a blue dress with a white underskirt, in addition to outerwear, knee-length stockings are worn, but there is no underwear at all, so that all the genitals stick out from him. Nor is it on the girl sitting behind him, who ... too ... everything is open. Looks like both him and her, their "lower regions" are very frozen!
"Magnificent Book of Hours of the Duke of Berry",
Condé Museum, France
Be that as it may, the time has come when not only knights in armor cladding their legs began to enter the battlefields, but also peasant and burgher infantry.
And the protective armor of the infantry at the turn of the Middle Ages and the New Age was a jacque - a quilted jacket lined with bone or metal plates. But the jacket was short, and it did not cover the bre. Fighting in linen shorts was simply indecent and inconvenient, and wearing knightly highways was not according to rank, and it was not affordable either.
Therefore, the infantrymen put on short pants, called breeches (English breeches or britches) - pants tightly covering the calves below the knees, made wide on the hips, protruding to the sides. The Breeches have been around since 1205. The word bréc or breoc (meaning "bre") is Old English, and before that came to England from Old French. Plural of bróc, meaning clothing for the feet.
Spanish infantrymen of the 1th century: 2 - a musketeer, dressed simultaneously in a jacque jacket, breeches and on top of them - plundra pants, 3 - a cavalry shooter with an arquebus, XNUMX - a spearman wearing a bourguignot helmet and a cuirass with plate armor for arms. Everyone is wearing stockings below the knee!
Rice. Richard Hook
They began to be worn by arquebusiers and pikemen of different countries, but the Swiss mercenaries and German landsknechts excelled in wearing these baggy trousers.
Landsknecht officer Konrad von Bemelberg (1494–1567), portrait by Petrus Christus (1566–1603), painted by him in 1582.
Kunsthistorisches Museum Vienna (Vienna Imperial Arsenal).
But what the armor depicted in this portrait looks like, in reality, we can see in the next photo ...
Armor of Konrad von Bemelberg (1494-1567). Made around 1535-1540. They are located in hall No. 3. Craftsman: Wolfgang Grosschedel (1517-1562, Landshut). The etching was done by Ambrosius Gemlich (1527–1542, Munich and Landshut). Helmet by Valentin Siebenburger (1531-1564). Material: polished iron with partial etching, gilding and blackening of indentations.
Kunsthistorisches Museum Vienna (Vienna Imperial Arsenal)
Landsknechts. Sheet number 968. “The first third of the XVI century. German military costume - Landsknechts of the XNUMXth century. "
Engravings by German authors Braun and Wilhelm von Dietz from the book "On the History of Costume"
(Louis Braun, Wilhelm von Die. Zur Geschichte der Kostüme, Munich, 1880)
Drummer and standard bearer.
Same source
Hauptmann (captain) and lieutenant.
Same source
"There is no bird more colorful" - wrote Erasmus of Rotterdam (1469-1536) about the landsknechts, noting their bright costumes and spectacular feathers with which they adorned their hats.
The landsknechts' clothes were distinguished by a special style - “puffs and slits” with a large number of slits and puffy sleeves. They wore all kinds of trousers, but they always decorated them with slits, and on the front of the pants they attached a brageta (that was the name of the bag for the genitals), often stuffed with cotton wool, and even a wallet with money was put into this bragueta!
The clergy were horrified by the protruding braguets, but the landsknechts did not pay attention to this, because the emperor Maximilian I himself allowed them to dress so pretentiously, who granted the landsknechts freedom from the laws regulating the appearance of clothing, which his other subjects had to strictly obey.
- once declared the emperor.
And Henry VIII, King of England, even began to imitate them in dress ...
However, the fashion for the landsknechts' clothes touched not only kings ...
Around 1523, knightly armor in the style of a Landsknecht costume was made for Baron Wilhelm, the eldest son of Kaspar von Rogendorf (1481-1541), and apparently a very big fashionista. Manufacturer - famous weapons master from Augsburg Kohlmann Helmschmid (1471-1532), engraved decor by Daniel Hopfer (1471-1536).
Imperial Arsenal, New Castle, Vienna
The clothes of the sworn enemies of the Landsknechts, the Swiss, were also very bright and colorful, but still not so pretentious!
Swiss guard of the French kings: 1 - the royal guardsman of 1507 in armor that fits the legs and in a cuirass, 2 - the guardsman of 1507 in the highway and a miparty costume, 3 - the Swiss guardsman of 1520. Also in a "miparti" suit, but on the hips so-called "Spanish pants", introduced into fashion by the Spaniards back in the 4th century, 1520 - captain of the Swiss guard in 5 under Francis I, 1559 - captain of the Swiss guard under Henry II in 6, 1571 - under Charles IX in 7, 1580 - under Henry III in XNUMX. It is clearly seen how the fashion for military suits of the Swiss guard changed in the XNUMXth century.
Illustration from the book by Liliana and Fred Funkenov “Encyclopedia of weapons and military clothing. Middle Ages. The era of the Renaissance: Infantry - Cavalry - Artillery "M .: Astrel, 2002. P. 27
By the way, the baggy trousers were also convenient for the riders of the heavy cavalry, who replaced the knights on the battlefield. They began to be worn with high, long boots and used for riding. In addition, they were a good cushioning pad on the thighs under the three-quarter armor.
It is interesting that the fashionable trousers with slits "a la landsknecht" were not only sewn from fabric, but also ... knitted. Moreover, even the noblest nobility did not disdain such knitted pants!
Here, for example, is the photo below, on it pants with an impressive size braguet are tied, although inside they have a strong lining!
Knitted upper pants of the Duke Augustus I of Saxony. Knitting in yellow silk, lined with two layers of yellow silk and undyed goat skin. Waist: 89 cm, leg length: 41 cm. Weight: 440 g. Made around 1552-1555, most likely in Saxony.
Dresden Armory
Then they went to war like to a holiday.
For example, the same landsknechts spent significant sums of their salary on clothing. Other soldiers also tried to keep up with them, which is why, say, the same arquebusiers and musketeers of the XNUMXth century look so bright and colorful.
Arquebusiers and musketeers of the 1th century: 1520. English arquebusier with the characteristic red cross of St. George on a tunic, 2 1520. Arquebusier of the Landsknechts, 3, traditionally dressed luxuriously and brightly. 1530. Arquebusier, dressed in new-style highways, sewn into one piece and with a snap-on front cover, 4 1560. Arquebusier of the Landsknechts, 5 1585. French musketeer, 6 1590. French musketeer, 7 in trousers- breeches. 1580. Musketeer, XNUMX
Illustration from the book by Liliana and Fred Funkenov “Encyclopedia of weapons and military clothing. Middle Ages. The era of the Renaissance: Infantry - Cavalry - Artillery "M .: Astrel, 2002. P. 23
It should be noted that it was in the XNUMXth century that many changes took place in clothing, both civilian and military.
"Spanish pants" became widespread (English trunk hose - short spherical pants with a thick lining), which were sewn from a smooth or patterned expensive fabric, had a double quilted lining under it, which was stuffed with cotton wool, chopped horsehair, or even just hay or ... sawdust.
Juan of Austria in Spanish pants. OK. 1580 Juan Pantoja de la Cruz (1553-1608).
El Escoril Monastery, Spain
The front was usually completed with a codpiece and were very uncomfortable. However, the third estate did not recognize them categorically, preferring longer pants, pantaloons. However, the fashion for Spanish pants in Western Europe lasted until the XNUMXth century. And to replace the "Spanish pants" came baggy plundras, which appeared at the end of the XNUMXth century.
By the way, today the Swiss guards guarding the Vatican look as historic as they did before.
Photo by the author
Pikemen of the XVI century: 1. Italian pikeman, 1500 Instead of a hat (bonnet), they could wear a barbut helmet or a simple headdress in the form of a bowler hat. 2. Swiss pikeman, 1510. His infantry half-armor is typical of the time. It consists of a bib and a backrest, but, in addition, it is equipped with two small side plates that covered the sides and were fixed to the backrest with hinges. 3. Swiss Pikeman, 1530. He is wearing captured armor, from which he removed his shoulder pads, an unnecessary spear hook and leggings to maintain the desired flexibility. Its pike is equipped with a reflective disc called the brise-perspective. 4. German pikeman, 1555. His sword is an Italian schiavona. It was at this time that the pants reached the limit of possible extravagance. 5. 1570 Breastplates, with more or less ornaments, were in use until the middle of the 6th century, but then they began to be produced of such poor quality that the plate skirt became a single piece, with imitated plates and rivets, and was stamped with one press. blow! 1582. XNUMX The breastplate (corselet) lost their shoulder pads. A helmet without a visor and armor already testifies to the imminent decline of plate craft ...
Know, however, still wanted to stand out in every way possible, including pants. And she also did not want to part with the traditional tracks, which were very beautifully wrapped around her legs.
The result of a compromise between the presence of trousers and the preservation of the shosses became plundras (German pluderhosen: pludern - to protrude, to make them bulging; hosen - trousers) - short, baggy-looking men's trousers, sewn from cloth, velvet or brocade, with vertical slits through which one could see lining, therefore their other name, slang - "pants with stuffing." It was they who replaced the very uncomfortable "Spanish pants", amicably ridiculed not only by commoners, but also by the famous Spanish writers of that era.
Claude of Lorraine (1578-1657), Prince de Joinville, 1610st Duke of Chevreuse. Frans Pourbus the Younger. Time of creation: XNUMX
Elthorp, Spencer Earl family estate in Northamptonshire, England
In this picture, he is depicted just in plundra!
Plundras can without exaggeration be attributed to the most extravagant phenomena in the history of the costume. The weirder they looked, the simpler, however, they had a cut.
They differed from the previous trousers in size, cut very wide and gathered in thick gathers around the leg. These pants extended to mid-thigh or knee-length and allowed to show the legs in tight-fitting stockings. Despite all their impracticality, from the second half of the XNUMXth century they became part of the European palace or military costume, and in Poland, where they were called pludry, they were worn in the XNUMXth and XNUMXth centuries.
Costume of Elector Christian II of Saxony (1583-1611) from dark red satin with original perforation in the form of hearts! Made in 1610
Dresden Armory
Ulrich III, Duke of Mecklenburg in plundra, c. 1573 Theodore Fischer (1817-1873).
Schwerin Castle, Germany
Naturally, new armor was needed for the new pants. For example, with lamellar legguards, lying just on the plundra, as in the ceremonial portrait of King Henry IV of Bourbon by Frans Purbus the Younger (1569-1622).
But we will be more interested in another portrait of Henry IV of Bourbon. Written around 1610 by the same Frans Pourbus the Younger from the Louvre collection. It depicts the king in typical cuirassier armor in "three quarters"
Over time, these pants began to stretch downward, they more and more resemble melons, and have already begun to cover the knee. And they themselves were no longer so plump, and the slots, in particular, in the XNUMXth century were no longer decorated.
Buttons sewn on the side at the seams very often served as decoration. Interestingly, the custom of sewing buttons or beads at the seams is extremely ancient, which has come to us from the depths of centuries. In the famous Sungir burial found in the Vladimir region, skeletons about 34 years old were found covered with thousands of beads made of mammoth bones. Moreover, their position just indicated that the beads were the decoration of the seams of the clothes of the buried!
Illustration by Denis Gordeev for the novel by A. Dumas "The Three Musketeers": "Athos gets a certificate of protection from my lady." Pay attention to his pants. They have become longer and are decorated with buttons at the seams!
As for the cuts, which the Landsknechts loved to decorate their clothes and pants with, they sank into oblivion together ... with the Landsknechts themselves, and the clothes of soldiers and civilians became simpler once again.
So already at the end of the reign of the "sun king" Louis XIV, the costumes of his courtiers and his soldiers looked completely different from at the beginning of his reign. In general, the fashion for breeches (or culottes, as they were called in France), that is, rather narrow pants to the knees, lasted an exceptionally long time ...
Silk breeches on a mannequin, approx. 1800 Italy.
Los Angeles County Museum of Art
To be continued ...
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