Alleys of Moscow. Klimentovsky - he is one of the chosen ones
Non-random choice
In order to clearly tell at least half of the Moscow lanes, as if life is not enough. But in general, a lot has been written and shown on TV about them, and the selection of publications in the Military Review may seem random to some. But this is not so - the author is well acquainted with each of the chosen, or rather, chosen, lanes.
Klimentovsky is just one of those, especially since in the 80s I had to come here, to Zamoskvorechie, regularly. Near the place where the lane ran into Bolshaya Ordynka, the native ministry rises monumentally - Medium Machine Building, now Rosatom. And the author worked for a decade and a half in one of its head design institutes.
Subsequently, already as a journalist, I had to be no less regularly noted at press conferences of the atomic ministers V. N. Mikhailov and E. O. Adamov, who replaced him. In the square in front of the building of the ministry, now a concern, a monument was erected not so long ago to their predecessor, Efim Pavlovich Slavsky, one of the founding fathers of the "atomic project".
Klimentovsky, one might say, was lucky, no one renamed it, although the local church of St. Clement did not function in Soviet times. In Zamoskvorechye, many names of streets and alleys have been preserved - Bolshaya and Malaya Ordynka, Pyatnitskaya, Polyanka and Yakimanka, two Khvostovy lanes, which are also nicknamed by the people - Tails.
Before the opening of the Tretyakovskaya metro station, Klimentovsky formally ended, although in fact it began from the local backyards. Both the alley itself and the utility yard of the electrical substation were separated from the many years of construction by an ugly and impenetrable fence. When Chubais tore apart RAO UES, for the sake of PR, the substation was turned into a kind of art object, and on the updated fence, successive “smart” graffiti now look quite organically.
Directly opposite is the former McDonald's, which has not yet been identified with Tochka, and has clearly lost its popularity. However, establishments on Klimentovsky are already in abundance. As long as they do not close, the holiday does not stop here, even for the homeless who have mastered the wasteland, which temporarily works as a public garden.
Short but bright
Moscow lanes are usually short or very short. The length of Klimentovsky - only 460 meters, and almost a third of it - after crossing with Pyatnitskaya Street, is generally of little interest to anyone. Behind Novokuznetskaya Street, there is something like a dead corner, although officially the lane begins there.
The preparatory courses at the Dolgoprudny Physicotechnical Institute are, of course, cool, but, again, only for the elite. And the right to be called a lane, even in the merchant Zamoskvorechye, still had to be earned. We needed at least a few estates or manor houses, or better, a temple, as in Klimentovsky.
People walk along Klimentovsky Lane mainly in that part of it where there are large offices, catering, metro stations and a temple. St. Clement himself was “settled” between the two Ordynka and Bolshaya Tatarskaya even under Ivan the Terrible, and here the Moscow militia in 1612 split the Polish detachment of Khodkevich, not sparing to burn down the first of the cathedrals where the enemies tried to hide.
Wooden churches replaced each other here until the 1760s. Then the architect I. Ya. Yakovlev built the current five-domed Baroque temple. With the money of the merchant K. M. Matveev and according to the project of Pietro Antonio Trezzini, a distant relative of the famous Domenico Trezzini, this is his hands Peter and Paul Cathedral in the Northern capital.
The Church of the Hieromartyr Pope Clement is only listed on Pyatnitskaya Street, but in fact it reigns over the alley. And the pilgrims always gathered right here, in the yards and in the lane, although it became pedestrian not so long ago - not even immediately with the opening of the metro station - an interchange, dual, immediately on the orange - Kaluzhsko-Rizhskaya, and purple - Krasnopresnenskaya, lines.
The Orthodox returned to this temple also quite recently - it served faithfully for a long time in the Lenin Library - a repository of manuscripts, as well as collections of unique church books. Already in the XNUMXs, I was lucky enough to participate, together with the staff of the GBIL, in the removal of a lot from the temple, when the most valuable, however, had already managed to go under the control of the Russian Orthodox Church.
your name is known
It was my second coming to Klimentovsky, but I still don’t know if there was even any gratitude from the church to Leninka. In any case, the page about the Soviet period of its existence is categorically not opened on the temple’s website, and on Wikipedia something is written that is not entirely appropriate and indistinct.
When you walk along Klimentovsky, where the flow of the public from the Tretyakov Gallery to Novokuznetskaya and back seems endless, you just need to lift your head up. The spirit will immediately take over! But Clement can even be photographed in a good way only from Pyatnitskaya, otherwise there is a house on a house everywhere, even from the upper floors you can’t grab anything large.
However, pretty tops and domes of the cathedral are shown here and there, but the lane itself these days still looks more like a human river. Chain establishments and restaurants crowd each other not only along the lane, but also in the yards, however, there are more beauty salons and dental clinics at first sight than polyclinics, schools or kindergartens.
Although there are still playgrounds, which means there are also permanent residents. Why be surprised - the side opposite to fast food, in addition to the temple, is occupied by solid capital houses of various years of construction. Here is Babanin's "profitable" eight-story building, and a remake of the 2000s matches it.
Only professional guides are capable of explaining where the Dolgov and Nikolaev city estates, registered in reference books and on websites, or the house of the same merchants Matveev, one of whom sponsored the temple, are located on Klimentovsky. But this is not as important as it seems to me - after all, everything is in work, occupied for something sensible, and occupied without a trace.
After crossing with Pyatnitskaya Street, the lane becomes completely boring, and since you have to turn left to the Novokuznetskaya station, there are very few people at this end. I used to be attracted by one of the best bookstores in Moscow with a great vinyl department and a quiet cafe.
This cafe was, one might say, a cult one, its visitors did not call it anything other than “Ham” (in honor of the famous writer). It was written there for sure - great, the atmosphere was inspiring, although almost nothing was visible through the windows in the two-meter-thick walls. What is Saint Clement...
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