Passing along Podsosensky. From the life of Moscow lanes
My low house was hunched for a long time,
My old dog is long dead
In Moscow's curved streets
To die, to know, God judged me.
Sergei Yesenin
My old dog is long dead
In Moscow's curved streets
To die, to know, God judged me.
Sergei Yesenin
Familiar strangers
I myself was born in Moscow, only with the number 400, in the Kazakh steppe, where my father served at the Semipalatinsk nuclear test site. Now this is the city of Kurchatov, where I can be considered never been. For the seventh decade, I have been a Muscovite, by my mother - and completely indigenous, and I lived all my preschool years in a lane - specifically on Samarsky.
This is in the area of Meshchansky streets and God's Houses, there are just a couple of steps to the corner of Durov (pictured), not far from the Cathedral Mosque and the Nikulinsky Circus. But instead of the lane itself, now there is an eternal construction under the fence of the CDSA park, now Ekaterininsky, and Olympic Avenue with a cyclopean reconstruction of the Olympic sports complex.
I will definitely write about Samara, but, most likely, at the end of this short series. In the meantime - about the alleys, which many of the readers of "VO", I think, if only they heard. On hearing, only the Arbatsky, which almost immediately disappeared into oblivion, the Zamoskvoretsky - unsinkable in the literal sense of the word, or the Sretensky reformatted beyond recognition.
A lot has been written about them in the networks, there are articles in Wikipedia. For many of them, not all, of course, special excursions are conducted in the capital, but everything is there - story yes former owners. I will have more about life, where you can eat or buy something. And also about what is worth just laying eyes on. Both outside and inside.
Direction is south. But we'll go north
I wanted to start this series from Lyalina Lane - a beer lover dear to the heart, and even with such a cozy name, but changed his mind in favor of his more modest neighbor - Podsosensky. This is how Vvedensky Lane was renamed in 1922. It stretched almost from the Kursk railway station almost to the Pokrovsky Gates.
Almost and almost - that is why it is not as famous as other metropolitan alleys - alleys. It does not go out onto the big streets, either to the Garden Ring or the Boulevard Ring. However, it is correct to go south along Podsosensky - from Barashi, where the numbering of houses begins, but it is there that the most famous of the objects, with which I will complete my first lane essay.
And our route will start from the street, which in Soviet times bore the name of Vladimir Obukh, the head physician of all Moscow, as he was called by the people. Behind him - the Bolshevik and the doctor, they nevertheless left one quiet lane, while the street was returned the historical name Vorontsovo Pole. It is directly opposite the Institute of Physical Chemistry, better known as Karpovsky, and Podsosensky flows into it.
On the left side, not so long ago, the Vorontsov-Velyaminov estate was restored, which was taken over by the Russian Historical Society, where it is easy to get on a free tour. Opposite is the former estate of the Prokhorovs-Khludovs, the first floor of which has been safely occupied by a Belgian pub for almost two decades, frankly, very expensive.
It was chosen by lawyers, local officials and teachers of the Higher School of Economics, which occupied a whole block, or even two, in the neighborhood, modernized beyond recognition. But in general, quite functional and neat.
A little further - one of the many Moscow mansions of a large family of merchants Morozov. Vikula Eliseevich first settled in it, ordering almost ancient classics for himself, and at the turn of the XNUMXth and XNUMXth centuries his son, Elisha. For him, the estate was remodeled by the best architect of the Moscow Art Nouveau Fyodor Shekhtel and the great Mikhail Vrubel.
It turned out just great, although the house lacks huge Shekhtel windows and doors, but the interiors are no worse than other Morozov semi-palaces. The House of Nationalities now functions in the mansion and it is also possible to get there, although it is a little more difficult than in RIO.
Not everything is behind
Let's leave behind the fork with the same Lyalin Lane, as well as the inconspicuous house where the aircraft designer Petlyakov lived, and the modern banking building hidden in the courtyards (pictured below). And almost on the contrary, we will see that in the solid building of the former real school of Voskresensky, private, and therefore paid, now teaches someone, something and somehow a certain university "Turo", also private and also, of course, paid.
Across another lane from it, with the name - Barracks, one of the most hyped buildings in the lane - Tarkhova's house - put up its spectacular corner. Someone calls it a house with cats, others - with worms or algae.
For several repairs and reconstructions, the appearance of the apartment building, which the architect Makaev built for himself, but the costs forced him to sell, was pretty emasculated. But still, fortunately, not as unceremoniously as most of the station buildings on the former Moscow District Railway, the current MCC.
Nowhere along Podsosensky before this intersection there were no shops or cafes, if only somewhere in the yards, only offices, clinics, even the School of Film and Television, but there is a place for residents.
Recently, in the yards, instead of sheds and utility rooms, houses and even quarters have grown, which are usually called elite. Well, from the elite here after the revolution lived if only Stalin's personal doctor - Dr. Vinogradov. There are also playgrounds, and an avant-garde entrance to garages (pictured), and cozy, albeit tiny, squares.
Unfortunately, there is less and less greenery in this alley, and this is some kind of scourge of the modern capital, where if trees are planted, then some wonderful ones, and not where they grew almost by themselves in the old days . After all, Podsosensky himself got his name thanks to the pines, which you will not find there in the daytime with fire.
Closer to its source at Barashevsky Lane, where there used to be a couple of tents - for receiving dishes and a pub, Podsosensky becomes a little wider. And here it has undergone much more alteration. They affected mainly apartment houses, modern cooperatives, but much was saved from a complete restructuring.
Road to the temple
The temple of the Presentation of the Mother of God in Barashy completes our short journey, giving the old name "Vvedensky" to the lane itself. The temple, built in the XNUMXth century and rebuilt in the XNUMXth century in a style reminiscent of the Naryshkin baroque, was not a temple for many years, passing from hand to hand from one Soviet department to another.
No one seriously destroyed it, and thanks for that. Now, restoration work is being slowly carried out there, and the main premises have been functioning for their intended purpose for several years. At the back of the Vvedensky Church, they once actively traded in bread and pastries, although not monastic, but cheap and always fresh.
But almost all trade in the 90s and 200s from Podsosensky gradually shifted to Pokrovka, along which the 25th and 45th trolleybus routes were only XNUMX meters away for decades. Beloved by all metropolitan students for the softness of the controllers and for the fact that they were taken almost to the Kremlin and even further - to Zamoskvorechye.
And more recently, Barashevsky was gifted with institutions that clearly belong to the representative office of the Republic of Dagestan in Moscow, where endless reconstruction has been going on for years. After gatherings there, there is simply no better route to the Kursk railway station, from where trains leave for sunny Dagestan, than along Podsosensky.
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