Military Review

Travel from Kiev to Lugansk. Travel notes

Travel from Kiev to Lugansk. Travel notes

Migrants. Convenient euphemism. Refugees, you see, scratches the ears and ears, it is disturbing, but now everything is purple. In the sense - to be purple. We rest, take selfies, rest again, hammer in everything and rest again. The word "immigrants" in this sense is very comfortable. Well, moved, so what? We have the right, we are in a free country. You can not think about the fact that people threw houses - broken in dust or whole - left property, lost friends, ruined families and fled in terror from war. From overnight stays in cast-iron baths and in damp basements, from the whistling of shells, from the ominous silence after shelling, from fear for oneself and loved ones.

So, every migrant wants to return home. Not for long or for good - that's how it will turn out. This pain sucking under the spoon does not allow to live, even if it was possible to settle down more or less comfortably in a new place. Yes, and on business need.

A trip to Lugansk today is possible almost exclusively through Russia. That is, you can, of course, get to the Ukrainian roadblock and try to enter the territory of the LC there, but this is a difficult, nervous and often hopeless case. Crossing the border, and the roadblock is the real border, no matter what the romantics of the united country claim about the integrity and indivisibility of Ukraine, it requires a special pass. It is extremely difficult and often fraught with a heavy humiliation of the applicant to receive such a pass through the established procedure, much has been written about this, as well as the fact that for patriots, by default, disinterested and honest, issuing passes has become a bold business. From thousands of hryvnias and above from each one who asks - as from a bush.

Little of. Roadblocks, it turns out, work until 18.00, and people who by all means have to get to their destination on the same day, sometimes run the risk of driving on a primer, running up on mines, as it happened just a few days ago at the roadblock "Kurdyumovsky ”That near Artemovsk. You have not seen Patra and the groups of the same lytsyats with a sign on the breasts “Je suis Artemovsk” - didn’t you run?

Real checkpoints at this border work around the clock, but this dramatically reduces their bribe-holding capacity. For a significant part of the ATO warriors, war is an excellent business, so why miss the opportunity to shake things off from people in extreme distress, while completely dependent on the whim of the left heel of the guard from the checkpoint — often drunk and always in courage.

Therefore, citizens prefer to go through Belgorod and the Rostov region, crossing the border in the area, for example, Izvarino. The road takes 27-32 hours, depending on luck and queues at the border points. Twice border crossing, 4 customs. A significant part of the trip is waiting in queues at checkpoints.

I travel by bus leaving the bus station №2 in Kiev. Inscription on the windshield - Irregular transportation. No route directions. We are not supposed to. We are now sneaking, trying not to get in my eyes, to speak quietly, without attracting attention. Some people got on the bus and went irregularly somewhere - either to visit or to go on a tour.

Settled, little by little acquainted, the road ahead is long and difficult. Many have already traveled to Lugansk, but past trips were many times harder - with transfers, forced marches from customs to customs with pood suitcases. Or through roadblocks.
Two rows of chairs from me sitting grandmother. Help her to fill the migration card compassionate neighbor. My grandmother now and then asks again, explaining that I am contused, I hear badly. Year of birth? 1923. She, therefore, is almost 92 of the year. The old woman travels alone, with three bags, though small. His history she reads with pleasure - her house came under fire in the summer. Nearby houses scattered to shreds; from its own roof, almost all the walls fell; more or less intact, although also without a roof, only the summer kitchen remained. Then grandmother and contusion. Together with my son, who was under 70, the summer kitchen was covered with pieces of slate, assembled near other houses, somehow patched the holes in the walls with cardboard and boards, and so they lived until the autumn - without water, light, gas. Thank God, the stove survived. In the fall, the son sent his mother to her sister in Kiev, and she lived there with her daughter, son-in-law, grandson, his wife and great-grandchildren in a three-room Khrushchev - all-sealed. Here, he says, warmer, returning home. It is a pity for my son, he, after all, and over wintered alone almost on the street.

Grandma goes alone, unaware that ahead of the border and customs. But he endures the difficulties steadily, without ever complaining. The mind is bright, it is calm. Neither curses nor wailing. Her pension had been transferred to Kiev, and she was lucky to save her son with money. Penny, in general.

On the eve of my trip I saw another grandmother. The same about a gentle oduvan. She is dressed in a poor but clean, pretty, wrinkled face, kind eyes. In a cart near the supermarket I put a bundle with some products - for the soldiers of the ATO. Maybe it was her son or grandson who defeated the modest house of 92-hletney Vera Mitrofanovna and the houses of her neighbors? In the name of the unity of the country.

And I remembered the third grandmother. An apocryphal grandmother with a bundle of brushwood, which she carefully planted in the fire on which Jan Hus was burned ...
Neighbors in the bus, meanwhile, are discussing the features of the transfer and receipt of pensions. A significant part of the elderly has something to say about the fight against the Jesuit, in other words, vile laws and regulations that ensure the steady decline of the pensioner population of Donbass. Sounds cynical, yes, but how else can it be characterized? Now they require the seal of the migration service, which in the paradigm of a single country looks pretty crazy, agree. But the bold thought does not stand still, the subject needs to be put on pressure, not all the old people still died, although, says another neighbor on the bus, in their Red Ray from starvation, 77 people have recently died.

Sit, read the newspaper. It says that now the print GMC is not enough. Now we need to take the paper pension business in Lugansk and transfer it to where the pension was transferred. And, allegedly, if this is not done before 1 May, they will not pay the pension. The task is almost unreal. There is no official request, this time, archives are often unavailable - these are two. Attempting to force hard-nosed Russians to introduce a symmetric requirement for Ukrainians to cross the border through passports failed, and the old people still may not be saddened that they do not have this document, making their way to their pensions by devious foreign ways and then queue up for registrations, stamps, and inquiries. Well, here you are. Odvichni lytsari not sleep.

The same Krasnoluchanka told how she traveled by Donetsk bus to one of the cities of the Luhansk region, where she transferred her pension. Rode through the block post. The bus was stopped, they took out all the old men and ... Well, no, of course, they did not shoot them. Forced to sing the anthem. I say, I know the anthem, but there are no other grandfathers and women. As always - the first lines only. Yes, these fighters do not know. But they demanded to sing. The old men could not, they were given pieces of paper with the text and told to teach. The driver was told to leave. He then, they say, waited for an hour and a half around the bend. But the old anthem did not learn, the blind, there is no memory, so they were sent back. They are crying, but where there. I barely begged, he said, she sang to them, I know the anthem ... In general, I left by another bus.
Such stories do not listen to. One clings to the other. The woman, who had lain for a month with a broken leg in the hospital, had seen enough of everyone. He says that they once brought a girl who had her spine pierced during the shelling, so relatives took her to the nearest towns, where the army or the National Guard is already standing, and they refused to accept her there, in those hospitals. And the other was traveling with her husband to Alchevsk, and in the area of ​​Happiness the gunners smashed the car in the target area. After the first shot, the car turned sharply and went backwards, but it was not possible to get away from the keen eyes of the same person. In the trunk, my husband was carrying wooden items for sale. The shell hit the trunk, thousands of slivers stabbed the woman in the back. Her arm was torn off at the shoulder, and the femur was shattered into fragments. For three months they were preparing for the operation, they were afraid, she would not stand it. Depression, says an eyewitness, she was terrible, crying, did not eat and did not say anything. The body is very weak. Then, however, they operated on and even seemed to give a good prognosis - they managed to maintain a normal leg length.

Incomplete doctors and nurses, on average, are 50% - even though many have returned.

To this woman, says the neighbor on the bus, the husband went, he went to the militia after that incident. So cheeky, excited, with weapons. He spoke loudly, popped his nose everywhere, shouted. Militias in general often very little resemble princes on white horses. Princes just, basically, departed, including those who strongly advocated for freedom and independence. On the other hand, the main confidants piled into Russia, which they hate to gnash their teeth. But some people in Kiev and Kharkov continue to struggle, urging them to hang up and flay their former compatriots. They need to try especially, proving loyalty, and where Ternopil's call, figuratively speaking, to cut fingers to terrorists, these, soiled by Lugansk origin, require to remove the skins alive.

Militias are different, yes. Mostly not saints, say Luhansk. They do not yet remember what their relatives say in the villages liberated by single-flank squad ...

The horror of these stories is tight in the bus, even cut with a knife. But the voices are quiet, no one is hysterical. Distracting from the sad, discuss the advantages and disadvantages of sweets from different manufacturers. Someone does not buy Roshan from the beginning of the war, and someone does not have any prejudice against the powdered sweets, and even sad about the fact that in Lugansk you will hardly find them.

The trip is tiring, hard, but no one shoots around, and this is happiness.
Already in Lugansk, I saw Avakov dreaming in a live broadcast studio. He said that it was necessary to blow up this Donetsk Regional State Administration at the very beginning, and it prompted him — and the Luhansk SBU, too. Well, 50 man would have died there, so there would be no war now. It’s good that it didn’t occur to Yanukovych to blow up right at the very beginning - well, at least the House of the architect and the Kiev mayor's office, occupied by the people who came up. So he was a bloody tyrant, and this is the Democrats. The studio is quite buzzing. Blowing up people is a pretty thing. And here only one air conditioner in Lugansk was blown up preventively, but in Odesa, five dozen Colorado were accidentally burned, and this wind was to blame, missed, in general, with the scale of the struggle for peace, democracy, rights and freedoms of citizens, yes.

Lugansk meets with silence and deserted streets. Half past six in the evening, almost all are home. My raped homeland, pity you to tears, to the interception of the throat. People look sad and somehow indifferent. Old people ask passers-by - did not hear, did you not get a pension? Just knowing that retirement is not brought up. There are very few merchants of mercy, and they are very shy. And others just stand at the stores, head down low. Thank you for your desperate thanks. Tears, despair and shame are being stifled, because you cannot help everyone. The hordes of Kiev volunteers come to mind - they ask aggressively, sharply, exactingly looking straight in the eyes, you can say - they demand that they respond to the filed with a loud shout of “Glory to Ukraine”.

However, I managed to see very few people. Hurricane broke power lines, and the city plunged into darkness. There is nothing to do with the war, of course. There are products in the city, but their range is poor, and prices are exorbitant. And yet life lives on. There are schools and universities, hospitals and theaters, some enterprises have resumed production, for example, the famous Gloria Jeans, weddings are played and children are born.

Friends say that optimists and romantics believe in the best, that everything will get better, that they will pay salaries and pensions, that businesses will be restored, they will sow bread, that life will revive in a land that is dear to my heart, and there will be light and darkness will not swallow it.
Photo: Nikolay Sidorov, Lugansk

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  1. Finches
    Finches April 6 2015 05: 54
    All Ukraine is reaping the fruits of its participation in avoiding the origins! Unfortunately ... That's it! And biblically rewarded to everyone! For silent indifference, for my hut from the edge, this Maidan is in Kiev ...
    1. Dembel77
      Dembel77 April 6 2015 06: 58
      Damn any war, and especially such as in Ukraine! Such, on which the victims and sufferings of the civilian population, exceed losses among the military at times! It’s not clear whether it’s ATO, or civilian, or liberation? No, most likely all the same liberation! And it doesn’t matter who is fighting for what, all the same, this war became a test of fortitude for all. Regardless of social status, religion or country of residence. Yes, yes, it is from the country of residence. And necessarily liberation, not only in the sense of liberation from enemies, but also in the sense of liberating us all from uncertainty. Who are we? People or animals! We stand for good, for evil, or will we remain aloof as usual? The world is waiting for our human and good reaction, and evil has already rubbed its hands in advance, being sure that there are no people left among us! I am well aware of all the naivety of my words, but I hope that the war in Ukraine will be the last among the Slavs and will purify our souls - maybe not completely lost - from all abomination, hatred and anger towards each other!
  2. blizart
    blizart April 6 2015 05: 55
    I retreated with Russia from the southern borders. First I was kicked out of Tajikistan, then I left Uzbekistan; I was squeezed out of Kyrgyzstan and now I, already with a (state) machine gun, "rested" in the foothills of the Tien Shan in Kazakhstan, with my Russian wife we ​​decided to stay here so that the history of our travels did not become quite similar to Tanya Savicheva's diary. And all this exodus was accompanied by pictures similar to the one described, there was no one to describe ours, and then it was not interested in the Motherland.
  3. domokl
    domokl April 6 2015 06: 04
    Very sadly written. But ... I did not want to raise this topic. I did not want to talk about sad things at all. I just can not continue.
    I’m not talking about Ukraine, I’m talking about Russia. About the old people, they live the same way. They have written so much about pensions and other things that they won’t even read. But we are silently shy about the situation today in the Russian outback.
    Every day I communicate with ordinary people, from a machine tool or a plow, as they used to say, and all, I clarify everything, and not a part, say that it has become hard to live. It is clear that Putin’s demarche about the reduction of his salary by 10% was perceived by officials as places as an order. And friendly Odobryams sounds in the vast expanses of the country. Reduced everyone. Only salaries are different. If you get 500-600 tyr, then losing 50-60 is certainly not a hunt, but tolerable .. But if you get 10? And lose 1? Significantly ? And people have lost much more 10%. On average (this is not statistics, I do not pretend, this is talk ory) percent on 30, or even 40 somewhere to go. Raised the salary, but removed the surcharges. And on the pocket-shish.
    Why am I talking about this? Crimea, which many people are talking about now, is perceived by people as Russian land. It’s not returned, or conquered, but just Russian. And no one believes that the Crimeans are not Russians. But the rest is Ukraine. This is a much more serious issue.
    Remember last year, the overwhelming majority perceived Ukrainians as fraternal people? They shouted about the Slavs, about Russia and other things. They dug up the roots. So today I hear more and more scary, Yes, they’re not my brothers. They raised a cow. Their children are now killing. their fathers, mothers. Their children spit on the graves of their grandfathers. The Ukrainians are now in purgatory. The blood as a way to cleanse is certainly scary, but there is no other way.
    Public opinion in Russia, at least in that Russia, which is far from the Kremlin walls, from beautiful concerts, from entertainment marches for various reasons, is changing. And it is changing for the better.
    And right away the answer to a future question ... I will not write an article simply because I have strained with literacy. More precisely, I do not distinguish commas from dashes ...
    1. EGOrkka
      EGOrkka April 6 2015 07: 06
      I'm from the hinterland !? 6000 km from the gold-domed - is it far or not quite ?! But my convictions were not always the same as they are now. Views changed, only remained unchanged-RUSSIA is my homeland !!! 1 desire-it is necessary that RUSSIA was a powerful gosudarstvo.Otvet lay on the surface-RUSSIA should have a powerful economy and scientific potential! But what would it be people needed! And here everything is not obvious. We need people who can .... but must not !!!! The path of the revolution is inappropriate, or rather, even to say: it is necessary to evolve in such ways, so that the predicted revolution would pass into an evolutionary course !!! The United States is doing about the same thing, but by absorbing (zaydanivaya) states, they enter them into their "food" chain.
      1. saag
        saag April 6 2015 07: 22
        Quote: EGOrkka
        The path of revolution is inappropriate — or rather, to say: evolution is necessary

        revolution is a time-compressed evolution :-)
        1. sssla
          sssla April 6 2015 18: 25
          Quote: saag
          revolution is a time-compressed evolution :-)

          Abortion material and born after 9 months of a properly born normal baby. What do you prefer to have ???
      2. perm23
        perm23 April 6 2015 07: 36
        Russia should consist of real citizens of its country, And not those for whom a full regiment of sausage is not known from what made and their own peace is more important. Until we ourselves take care of ourselves and our homeland, the economy and potential will come true. we have a mind, We only need to add honor and dignity. They are not sold for jeans, cigarettes, chewing gum and Coca-Cola. To be truthful ourselves and not to wait for someone to come and do everything, but I can only put it in my mouth. In the meantime, basically everyone is waiting for someone who will go ahead to the embrasure, and they will stand and see what happens. They themselves should not have their family children. Yes, even in the Donbass, not everyone came out. And if Russia really stood up, millions of men would come out and say, All nefig to fight, or we will come and end the war ourselves. It would all be over.
        1. CONTROL
          CONTROL April 6 2015 09: 28
          Quote: perm23
          Russia should consist of real citizens of its country, And not those for whom a full shelf of sausage ...

          "Born nobleman" Zlotnikov!
          Maybe you need to revise the very institution of citizenship: let those who can and be able to be them, and the rest be citizens at best, with the appropriate rights!
          ... Maybe then the presidential election will look very different! it all depends not only on WHOM they choose, but also WHO! ... Well, and everything else ...
    2. alicante11
      alicante11 April 6 2015 08: 46
      It’s clear that Putin’s demarche about reducing his salary by 10% was perceived by local officials as an order. And friendly Odobryams sounds in the vast expanses of the country.

      It’s somehow strange, maybe I do not live in the “outback”. Is Khabarovsk a hinterland or not? But for some reason, in a techie, my salary was not cut by 10%, maybe the necks are long or the thread is small, haven't it come down yet?
      Has it become more difficult to live? Definitely, but it did not start after Crimea. Five years ago, we ordered groceries at home, three years ago we bought groceries in a hypermarket, but for more than a year - only at a wholesaler. But it started not even 5 years ago, it started in the late 80s, when we changed our country and our idea. And now - this is capitalism, friends, if you do not keep up with inflation, and, God forbid, income is also decreasing, it is impossible to maintain the level of consumption. But how many were those who did not "enter the market" at all. We have not yet reached this point, thank God. But after all, the war, by and large, has just begun ...
      1. 2ez
        2ez April 6 2015 14: 07
        I completely agree! I will not be nostalgic for the USSR, you will never return it ... How can you not return that Soviet RUBLE, and not a dollar that nobody needs in RUSSIA ... But after all, PEOPLE remained ?! And they live and work, raise their country ... Until the bulk of this will understand, we will just chat ... Speak - do not carry bags. But Russia will rise, it has no other choice!
    3. CONTROL
      CONTROL April 6 2015 09: 22
      I don’t perceive the “brotherly” Ukraine since the 70s ...
      Often I had to go on business trips there, that the West, that the East - rottenness of varying degrees ... "Nebrat" and non-Slavic Bashkiria, Udmurtia, Tatarstan - an order of magnitude "fraternal" than "Slavic" Ukraine! ...
      1. xan
        xan April 6 2015 11: 49
        Quote: CONTROL
        Often I had to go there on business trips, that Western women, that the East - rottenness of varying degrees ..

        Donbass, in my opinion, answered for himself. It turned out to be quite rotten, and it is necessary that they be there at the helm. And schools should teach differently. After that, we’ll see what’s what.
        Moltke "school teacher wins wars".
  4. Mountain shooter
    Mountain shooter April 6 2015 07: 12
    Svidomo not come to their senses. The people in dill quickly and irrevocably run wild. And it doesn’t matter how you live yourself, if only your neighbor (New Russia) lived even worse.
    And everyone is doing it. Having made millions of pensioners hostages. Finally, your arrogance, your ambitions, your greed. Tse europa, but yak!
  5. oracul
    oracul April 6 2015 07: 23
    Well, one more look from a slightly different angle. It is disappointing that there is little optimism, but most likely, the way it really is. Civil war is not just an expression - it is a reality. Terrible reality. And do not be surprised at the negative statements addressed to the militia. The fact that someone is taking advantage of the troubled looting is a reality. A split among people is also a reality. And Crimea, on the contrary, was practically united in its impulse. You can’t say this about Donbass. Perhaps this is precisely what is a deterrent to Russia's behavior. But now a lot has become clearer and clearer who is who. I wish good luck to the fighters for New Russia.
  6. avia12005
    avia12005 April 6 2015 07: 47
    I would have given my soul to the devil not only for free, but I would have paid him to see Poroshenko, Yatsenyuk, Avakov, Turchinov in the convoy headed by Obama, Biden and Kerry go under fire from militiamen to Borispol airport.
    1. xan
      xan April 6 2015 12: 00
      Quote: avia12005
      I would have given my soul to the devil not only for free, but I would have paid him to see Poroshenko, Yatsenyuk, Avakov, Turchinov in the convoy headed by Obama, Biden and Kerry go under fire from militiamen to Borispol airport.

      This is not the same, comrade. The most it will be when, without any militias, Bandeva in all the dill will be chased with rags, when for the "glory of dill" they will be guaranteed to be hit in the face, when all the lads from the glad will be overfished and imprisoned, when the curriculum is changed in schools, when the ghouls from OUN-UP will indicate their true place in para.shi. And let this hop company live, it is better, of course, on bunks, but in fact they will be the initiators of such a purification of dill. Without this, the creeping banderization would eventually turn all dill into zapadenschina, and with Crimea it would not be clear.
      Already the medal "For the return of Crimea" minus the first degree should be given to them, the disenfranchised.
  7. Zomanus
    Zomanus April 6 2015 08: 44
    The reason for this situation is that the war was unleashed and ruled by non-Ukrainians. Tasks are set from abroad by the eternal enemies of the Slavs. They always tried to destroy the Slavs, Jews and other "subhumans". Now they are destroying the population of Ukraine. Someone explicitly with the help of guns, rockets, mortars. Someone implicit, with the help of exorbitant prices and tariffs, throwing unprepared on the offensive. And no matter what these enemies do with the help of their faithful servants in the government of the country, the goal is one - to destroy as many Slavs as possible. If it were possible, then the concentration camps were already there and people were poured with battle poisons. But you need to preserve the semblance of civilization. That is why they said "fas" and allowed to do whatever they wanted, promising that they would not pay attention to it.
  8. Avas2006
    Avas2006 April 6 2015 09: 50
    And Crimea, on the contrary, was practically united in its impulse. You can’t say this about Donbass. [quote = avia]
    This Donbass Russia does not need and do not want to pay pensions, a lot of pensioners. But Ukraine dreams that pensioners would die out, especially since the main protest electorate is those who grew up in the USSR. Even the unfortunate $ 30 and it is a pity, you can use it on foreign consultants. You look, from 1000 Donetsk pensions - one consultant.
    ROMAN VYSOTSKY April 6 2015 13: 26
    Everything will be fine in the end.
    The only pity is that not for everyone.
    And all sold and repainted, on whom the blood of the Russian, we will judge.
    Everyone will be rewarded according to his deeds.