Watches and the watch industry of Russia
In the material Watches and watch industry of the USSR We've examined the formation and flourishing of the domestic watch industry. Today, we'll discuss the post-Soviet, post-Perestroika period, which continues to this day.
Restructuring
After the collapse of the USSR, a flood of foreign-brand watches of all price ranges entered the country. As a result, the production volume of the entire watch industry in the country simultaneously collapsed. Naturally, this happened not only in Russia, but also in Belarus.
In the early 90s, almost every schoolchild dreamed of a Montana USA watch. Of course, they weren't made in America – first in South Korea (the quality was still quite good back then), and then in China.
During the first years, and perhaps even decades, in the countries of the former USSR, Soviet/Russian watches enjoyed very limited demand – people had not yet had their fill of imports.
Talking watches – in the early 90s, they seemed like a miracle and were every boy's dream, although they were just watches for the visually impaired...
Gradually, in addition to Chinese counterfeits of dubious quality, watches from famous brands began to be imported into Russia. Casio, Citizen, Romanson, Q&Q, and others became popular in the entry-level price range. Naturally, the rapidly emerging class of wealthy and very wealthy individuals led to the emergence of a market for luxury watches – Omega, Breitling, Rolex, and others.
In high school, it seems, in 1994, the author really liked the Casio Pro Trek watch in a magazine he found on the street, which seemed like alien technology (a clipping from that magazine has survived to this day), and a few years later, already during his studies at university, in 1997, the author liked the Vacheron Constantin Overseas watch in some magazine - the price was not indicated, and at that time it was impossible to even imagine that watches of such a cost could exist.
By the time the author could afford the Casio Pro Trek ATC-1000, they had already been discontinued. However, in their place, the somewhat similar Casio G-SHOCK G-9200-1D were purchased, which have seen a lot of use and still function perfectly to this day.
However, we have strayed a bit from the topic.
Oddly enough, the survival of the Soviet/Russian watch industry was largely helped by foreign influences – just as the USSR coveted everything foreign, many in the West and East were interested in products “Made in USSR.”
Perhaps this is why one of Russia's largest watch brands, Vostok, survived. However, Vostok-Komandirskie and Vostok-Amphibia were quite popular not only abroad but also in Russia—people gradually became satiated with foreign goods, and many were drawn to domestic brands.
Modern Vostok watches – "Komandirskie" (Commander's watches). Image courtesy of vostokinc.ru
However, most Soviet brands gradually began to disappear from the market. Apparently, the main problem was maintaining the production of watch movements—what makes a watch truly "domestic." Producing its own watch movement, including the most complex components such as the hairspring and balance, is far from every watchmaker's capability. Even today, there are only a few countries with such manufacturers, and Russia is one of them.
Revival
After the collapse of the USSR and a relatively brief period of fervent worship of all things Western, collectors emerged who collect Soviet watches of various brands. While this trend is primarily focused on watches produced during the Soviet era, the very emergence of such a community generates interest in domestic watches. Thanks to them, modern watchmakers are releasing retro versions inspired by them, creating a kind of "chain reaction" of growing interest.
Restored father's Vostok-Amphibian watch, which was re-luminized (luminescent material on the hands was replaced), the glass was replaced with a new one (the original plexiglass was too badly scratched), and a custom steel bezel was installed.
For a time, sales of many Soviet/Russian watch brands were still supported by stockpiles of movements in warehouses. New watch brands and models, quite interesting in design, even appeared, equipped with Russian, Swiss, or Japanese movements. However, many of these eventually disappeared from the market.
The Aviator watch from Volmax with the Flight 31681 movement
Around the same time, the "Aviator" watch from the company "Volmax" was released, the first information about the Russian fifth-generation fighter Su-57 appeared, and the author even developed a concept for a modified "Aviator" watch in the style of this aircraft.
Watch manufactures have also emerged, creating high-end watches with complex and unique mechanisms.
The "Joker Iron Mask" and "Joker Golden Mask" watches from the Konstantin Chaykin watch manufacturer. Image: chaykin.ru
Gradually the market began to stabilize, and now it is even possible to identify the leaders (according to the author), producing watches entirely (or almost completely) Russian production - now these are the brands "Rocket", "Lightning" and "East".
Brand "Rocket" positions itself as a guaranteed all-Russian watch manufacture, where all components are produced in-house, including the hairspring and balance.
Raketa brand watches. Image: raketa.com
These are not cheap watches, and they are not affordable for everyone, but quality does not come cheap – the Russian watch industry needs to develop into the upper price segments, as status watches enhance the prestige of the entire national watch industry and pull the market along with them.
Another Russian brand that is starting to compete on price with inexpensive entry-level Swiss watches is Molniya brand watchesThis manufacturer's watches are equipped with both domestic hand-wound movements and imported Miyota and Ronda movements.
Molniya brand watch. Image: molnija.shop
Well and of course Vostok brand watches – for the most part, these are fairly simple and unpretentious watches, often not distinguished by high accuracy “out of the box”.
But they have a minimal cost, and their design is simple and repairable, like a UAZ car - most watchmakers in almost any city in Russia can repair and adjust the Vostok watch, and you can even learn how to service and adjust it yourself using videos on the Internet. (if there is such a desire).
As a first watch for a child, a Vostok watch is quite suitable, of course, if children are currently interested in any kind of watches – many do not even know how to use analog dials.
For some, Vostok watches are a hobby and a collector's item. Special editions are produced, and there are craftsmen who can customize these watches to suit the owner's needs.
A Vostok brand watch. Image courtesy of meranom.com
By the way, the Vostok brand watch is included in the Ratnik equipment kit under the index 6E4-1.
Finally, I can also remember Belarusian watches of the "Luch" brand - Of course, formally these are not Russian watches, but still, this is the legacy of the former USSR, our common story.
The Luch company produces watches with their own movements, as well as a wide selection of movements from foreign manufacturers. Their watches are inexpensive, but, according to some acquaintances, they are quite interesting and of fairly high quality. Among the most interesting are the single-hand models.
Luch brand watch. Image: luch.by
Conclusions
Well, the patient is still more alive than dead – the Soviet/Russian watch industry managed to survive the crisis of perestroika and the collapse of the USSR and is ready to move into the future.
Left out of the equation are numerous other Russian brands and watch manufacturers producing watches based on foreign movements. There's nothing wrong with that; there are a huge number of watchmakers worldwide, including those in the high-end segment, that use foreign movements, albeit often with modifications.
There are several stages that can be identified for watch manufacturers:
- complete production of watches abroad according to your technical specifications;
- the use of a foreign basic mechanism in watches produced in one’s own factory;
- use of someone else’s mechanism with modifications or complications;
- production of our own mechanism using a spiral and balance from third-party manufacturers;
- production of our own full-cycle watch mechanism.
Theoretically, any company can take this path—if only they want to. Sometimes, clever marketing and a well-placed vision can yield more than a brand's centuries-old history.
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