11 March 1834, Nikolai I approved the "Regulations on civilian uniforms"
Back in April, 1828, the sovereign ordered to deliver samples of all forms of civilian government (apparently, uniforms were meant) to the First Division of the Imperial Chancellery. The first office of His Own Imperial Majesty's Office was engaged in the preparation of state decrees, orders and rescripts, led the control over their execution, the presentation of reports and petitions to the king.
It should be noted that the practice of wearing uniforms (uniforms) by civilian officials and noblemen dates back to the 1780s. It was explained not only by the need to externally distinguish civil servants, but also by the desire to limit the luxury of noble robes. At the beginning of the 19 century, departmental uniforms appeared in the empire of ministries. During this period, they were made in the French fashion: narrow, single-breasted, with a standing collar, with pocket flaps at the hips and a cut in the front below the belt.
In 1829, the own E.I.V. Office received the task of developing a draft “General Provision on Civilian Forms”. The assignment was executed only by May 1833, which was explained by the workload of the office in the affairs of the Russian-Turkish war 1828-1829 that ended. The manager of the in-house office, A. S. Taneyev, explained the reasons and goals of the reform with the need to establish uniformity. It was also said that “there are no decent differences in the degrees of positions, especially the highest ones,” and they are almost the same. Therefore, instead of private and incomplete provisions that existed before in some departments, one general provision was developed.
11 March 1834, Nikolai Pavlovich approved the Regulations on Civil Uniforms prepared by his own E. I. V. Office. At the same time, the emperor approved the “Description of Ladies' Dresses”, which concerned solemn events at the Imperial Court. Thus, in Russia, one of the first official clothing codes was approved, which was mandatory when visiting certain organizations, institutions and events.
The main theses of the new "Regulations" were as follows. The new law covered the officials of state institutions. As a rule, all institutions of each department in the center and in the field received uniform uniforms. The provincial uniforms of civil servants were abolished. The uniform of the French model was retained, but its cut has changed somewhat due to a clearer cutout in the front. In most cases, the previously established colors of uniforms and sewing patterns were preserved. From this point on, uniforms corresponded only to the rank of the position, and not rank. For the majority of departments, the 10-ryazryadnye division of posts was introduced, it corresponded to the same completeness of sewing on the uniform. This gradation was fixed in staff schedules.
Uniforms were dark green or dark blue, and red was assigned to the senators. Most of the departments received dark green uniforms. Dark blue uniforms were among the employees of the Ministry of Public Education, the Academy of Fine Arts, the mining department, the department of communications and public buildings, and the Department of Cultural Affairs of Foreign Confessions.
Only the Chairman of the State Council, the Chancellor of Russia and the Chancellor of the Imperial and Tsarist orders could wear the uniforms of the 1 class. The uniforms of the 1-th rank corresponded to the largest amount of sewing. Sewing was located on the collar, cuffs and pocket flaps, along the shoulders and back around the collar (this sewing was introduced for the first time), under the flaps (feather), along the sides, floors and folds in three rows (garlands), along the edges of the rear cut and above it (Kapik), but also at the seams of the back and sleeves. There was no sewing and a third garland on the uniforms of the 2 discharge. The uniforms of the 3 category were deprived of sewing around the collar and the second garland, and the “feather” was a simplified form. The Ministry of Foreign Affairs had full and half sewing on the collar and cuffs of the uniforms.
On the uniforms of the 4 discharge, sewing was maintained only on the collar, cuffs and pocket flaps, and 5, only on the collar and cuffs. The uniforms of the 6 category had half-embroidered collar and cuffs. The uniforms of the 7 category received half-sewing on the collar and sewn edging on the cuffs, and the 8-i had the same, but without the edging on the cuffs. Sewn edging on the collar and cuffs had the uniforms of the 9-th category, and 10-th had only a edging on the collar.
Seven forms of clothing were introduced and cases when they were to be worn: formal, festive, ordinary, everyday, special, road and summer. In 1845, the “Schedule on which days in which form to be” came out. Uniform uniforms were usually indicated on agendas, where officials were invited to various events and meetings.
Part of the dress uniform was a triangular black hat with small silver tassels at the ends and a buttonhole with a small button. Officials of the 1-5 classes had a twisted buttonhole similar to the general's, other classes - from a smooth braid. The buttonhole blocked the cockade (it was considered an important element of the uniform, indicated the nationality) in the form of a rosette of three circles of moiré ribbon of black (in the center), orange and white colors. Somewhat later, the cloth cockade was replaced with a metal one. At the beginning, it was made in the form of an ellipse and secured on the band in the front, then it became round, and it was moved to the crown. In addition, an indispensable part of the uniform was a civilian sword with silver lanyard. It must also be said that the civilian uniform was considered incompatible with the presence of a beard and even a mustache. In 1837, an order was issued to all bosses to ensure that their subordinate beards and mustaches were not worn.
A retired government official could have kept his uniform if he served in the department for at least 10 years and his service did not cause any complaints.
Preparation of drawings was entrusted to Academician I. A. Ivanov, who was known for “his perspective views and landscapes”. Ivanov already had experience of similar work: in 1815, he performed the album Image of Changes that followed in the armament and attire of the Russian army from half of the 9th to the beginning of the 19th century. ” His new work was approved, and the artist received a considerable reward for those times - 3 thousand rubles. The originals of the drawings were sent to various departments, where they were to make copies of them, then they were transferred to the Senate for storage. New uniforms were to be made within one year, during this period it was allowed to wear old ones.
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