Alleys of the capital. Further along Samotechny
Up Delegatskaya
Three of the four Samotyochny lanes start from Delegatskaya Street, where it descends to the squares near CDSA and Durov Corner. With monuments to Suvorov, Marshal Tolbukhin and the hero pilot Popkov, who became the prototype of the singing squadron commander Titarenko performed by Leonid Bykov from the unique “Only Old Men Go to Battle.”
On the corner with Samoteka, in a traditional Moscow one-story extension, a bakery operated for many years - one of the best in the capital, alas, a decent photo of which was not found. Of course, not Filippovskaya or the one that worked on the corner of the high-rise building on Kotelnicheskaya Embankment, delighting its famous residents, including Faina Ranevskaya.
She always said that she lives between bread and circuses, meaning the bakery and the Illusion cinema, where world masterpieces are still shown. But nowhere, except in our bakery, to which it was a seven-eight minute walk from my Samara Lane, have I come across such luxurious Yaroslavl buns - sprinkled with jam in the middle.
We have already talked about the Third Samotechny Four Gravity and Museum, and the Second of Samotyochny lanes goes up a little to the right, ending with that same arch, or rather, just a gateway that has been blocking the passage for many years. One of the LiveJournal readers wrote well about how they cleaned up this alley, when it had not yet been blocked, and suggested that
“pay attention to the work of the wipers, in winter all the sidewalks were never slippery, I went to school along this alley for seven years and I remember how clean it was. The janitors shoveled the snow into snowdrifts against the trees (and these were mostly old linden trees), compacted them with wooden shovels, and in snowy winters the snowdrifts often reached human height, and we children, playing, dug caves in them and sat there for 2– 3 people... until the cold forced us to change the game to a more active one.”
It turns out that 2nd Samotyochny is not at all a lane that would lead to 4th Samotyochny, but a dead end with good Stalinist buildings and a complete absence of any infrastructure.
But in Pervy Samotechny, which starts higher along Delegatskaya and to the left, the infrastructure is in complete order. There is barbecue at the start, and wine boutiques, and an advanced museum with a square, even two, which seem to open up a whole museum quarter.
By iron route
Why, it seems?
Yes, because there is pathos in abundance here, there are plenty of quiet corners and strange, albeit cute animals - the children are not bored, but the information is not very good. And let readers say that the author grumbles and repeats himself. Look at the photos of these strange guidebooks, and if you find yourself on Samotechny, just try not to get lost.
However, there are actually no other roads in the alley except to the Gulag Museum - only to the courtyards. The museum itself, at 1st Samotyochny Lane, building 9, building 1, is, to be honest, quite impressive with its original conversion from a banal apartment building, in which Metrostroy offices were located for a long time.
The gateway of the house was turned into an elegant entrance block to the museum, and the courtyard, once occupied by garages, workshops and sheds, was converted into a square, or rather even a small park. This is an undeniably elegant “Garden of Memory”.
Here there are magnificent greenery and flower beds, and in the pavilion, stylized either as a barracks or as a camp canteen, extraordinary artistic and historical exposure.
And right there you can see two old metro construction mines, brought to divine form, whose number is even known - 906; they are somewhat unexpectedly, but quite appropriately complemented by a camp tower.
Moscow Mayor Sergei Sobyanin indirectly reminded about these mines, which were used in the construction of two metro lines at once - the gray Serpukhovsko-Timiryazevskaya and the light green Lyublinsko-Dmitrovskaya. He announced the long-awaited construction of the Dostoevskaya station on the Circle Line - between Prospekt Mira and Novoslobodskaya.”
The metro doesn't work
Initially, it was supposed to be called "Suvorovskaya", and at one time it was conceived under the name "Commune Square". But it has been seven decades since the Soviet Theater, now the Russian Theater, Army The public is confused by the creepy fences and technological appearance of another metro construction shaft.
This is the one from which the construction of this particular station began, I did not find out the number. What was the reason for such many years of downtime could be told at the Metrogiprotrans Institute, but it seems there is no one.
Apparently, construction projects in the cities of the Union and people's democracies or the rings of the Accelerator-Storage Complex at IHEP - Institute of High Energy Physics in Protvino were distracting.
I won’t go into more detail about the Gulag Museum itself; this is a completely separate topic; I’ll just note that it’s still difficult to consider it a dominant feature of the area, and I’ll repeat that this is not necessary. There are plenty of equally attractive attractions nearby, starting with Delegate Park and the Museum of Decorative and Applied Arts.
Hey Lissitsky!
From the museum it’s just a couple of steps to a real architectural monument, which the majority of the public simply does not notice. Because of the neat fence, blank and with barbed wire, you can clearly see the updated building of the printing center, which has been owned by the special services since the early 40s.
Before them there were several years of downtime and a long glorious history of the printing house of the Ogonyok magazine, built back in the early 30s according to the design of Lazar Lissitsky, known to many as El Lissitsky. Ale is not at all a reference to a wonderful drink, it’s all because the real name of the iconic architect of the constructivist era is Eliezer.
In architectural circles, the Ogonkovsky building is usually called a recumbent skyscraper, but today it hardly evokes a vivid impression. Lissitzky conceived an entire architectural ensemble with two editorial buildings, a transformer substation, a boiler room, a garage and a printing shop.
But due to lack of funds, the project was significantly cut back. The printing complex itself was transferred to the balance of the People's Commissariat of Internal Affairs as soon as the legendary editor-in-chief of Ogonyok, Mikhail Koltsov, immediately upon returning from Spain, came under repression. By all indications, he collaborated there with everyone who was against Franco - both anarchists and Trotskyists.
Repeated reconstructions have somehow emasculated the project of the iconic architect, and the current color scheme of the facade is frankly sluggish in comparison with the original one. El Lissitzky has preserved another noticeable object in the capital - the administrative building of the Gorky Central Park of Culture and Culture.
Anyone who goes to the park along the Crimean Bridge from the Park Kultury metro station cannot help but notice it, but all attention is usually distracted by Pushkinskaya Embankment and the attractions. And skyscrapers, and the top of the Shukhov Tower visible from afar.
All that remains is to admit that a brand new and clearly elite residential building with the pretentious name “Lumiere” that has grown up next to the work of the great Lissitsky certainly does not spoil the picture of 1st Samotyochny Lane. Moreover, it is located slightly in the depths of a quite cozy courtyard, and, moreover, a passageway in Moscow style.
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