Alleys of Moscow. Milyutinsky or capital Markhlevka

Alleys of Moscow. Milyutinsky or capital Markhlevka

How do I get to the library?

In fact, the library in the house, or rather in the Chertkov Palace, is led by Kirova Street, now again Myasnitskaya. But from Sretenka and Lubyanka it was easier to get there directly - along Markhlevsky Street, as Milyutinsky Lane was called in Soviet times.

Yulian Marchlevsky had no direct connection with the street named after him. Polish revolutionary and part-time historian, author of the propaganda "Stories Poland,” a friend of the notorious banker and Leninist sponsor Parvus. And this was enough to give the lane a new “revolutionary” name.

Much earlier it was Kazenny or Kamennaya Street, also renamed in honor of the homeowner A. Ya. Milyutin, the great-great-grandfather of the Milyutin brothers - famous reformers under Alexander II. It is clear that Muscovites immediately renamed the 600-meter-long street Marklevka, and, interestingly, the name of the Polish communist today is still borne by streets in Warsaw, Belarusian Kalinkovichi and several cities in Germany.

And the richest library, the first in Moscow publicly accessible, was eventually transferred to the historical museum, contrary to the wishes of its owner, Alexander Chertkov. She then formed the basis of the collections of the Historical Public Library.

Not in quantity, but in the selection of books, it could compete, if not with Leninka, then with the State Public Library for Science and Technology. And the profile allowed - in the former Chertkov Palace on Kirova Street, building 7, the Engineering Society worked for many years, and in the 90s - the All-Russian House of Knowledge, and legal copies of most scientific works were received there.

Northeast diagonal

Milyutinsky Lane starts from Myasnitskaya Street, after the Book World, now Biblio-Globus, the legendary but closed Khrustal store and the Chertkov Palace, going to the left - in the direction of the Sretensky Monastery and further - to Sukharevka. Now there is a fairly decent area here, for some reason it is still nameless, although in Moscow there are often problems with renaming.

Nowadays, on the site of a vacant lot with a blank wall, where the dilapidated house of the clergy of the Orthodox Cathedral of Archdeacon Euplus was demolished back in the 30s, a new building of the Higher School of Economics has risen. From an architectural point of view, it is, of course, not a masterpiece, but the first floor cannot but delight students with an abundance of coffee shops, bookstores and a Czech pub opposite.

Milyutinsky itself is not just a lane, but one of the diagonals that helped shorten the path to Sretenka without using the Boulevard or Sadov rings. And this is quite typical for old Moscow, from the same intersection with Myasnitskaya in the other direction, Krivokolenny Lane went to the Armenian Sloboda.

Also, turning to the right, Povarskaya is laid from Molchanovka; Bolshaya and Malaya Nikitskie, Spiridonovka and Granatny Lane run out from the center. In Zamoskvorechye, several streets go straight to Valovaya, sometimes converging at one point or intersecting with each other.

But if everywhere there is usually noisy and hectic, then Milyutinsky is generally a quiet place, even if there is a French Lyceum named after Alexandre Dumas on it (photo below). Students hang out in a state-of-the-art courtyard with a sports ground without going outside, and after classes they are quickly taken home.

However, French lyceum students can also visit the pretty Catholic Cathedral of St. Louis (pictured). There is another non-Orthodox church on Milyutinsky - a Polish one in the name of Saints Peter and Paul, which has undergone all reconstructions and repairs.

The Poles were drawn here even before the revolution, and was this not the reason for giving the lane the name of Markhlewski? Strange logic, you will agree. By a similar logic, many believe that Milyutinsky is always quiet because of its proximity to Lubyanka.

I won’t argue that the silence in the alley is also enhanced by the fact that there are no (or rather, almost none) along its entire length either drinking establishments or lively cafes, or large green areas. There is a very small, forever closed garden near the former estate of Milyutin, the one who gave the name to the lane and once built a silk factory (pictured below).

In one of the estate buildings, the cabaret theater “The Bat” began its vigorous activity, which attracted theatergoers to Milyutinsky and pushed Alexander Kalyagin to build the Et Cetera theater on neighboring Turgenevskaya Square.

On the contrary, the departmental clinic of the NKVD-KGB (pictured above) also somehow managed to save several trees. And there is also a not entirely dead zone at house number 10, with the French Institute located there. It has been under construction for decades, and it is still considered half-dead.

Directly opposite is the tallest building of the capital at the beginning of the 60th century - the station of the Danish-Swedish-Russian Telephone Society. My mother worked in the MGTS repair shops, and somehow back in the XNUMXs she had to take me with her to work - to this “secret” Central Automatic Switching Station. I still remember the noise and crackling of the equipment and the endless twisting staircase (see a modern photo).

Without going to Sretenka

There are practically no standard buildings in Milyutinsky, which means there are no houses without history. It is simply impossible to retell them all, and not all have survived. Leaving on the left hand the tiny Sretensky Lane, which leads directly to the monastery and its “core” shops, we find ourselves in a small square with access to the boulevard.

There, after many years of reconstruction, the house of I. D. Loris-Melikov came to life and, I admit, pleases the eye. This rich Armenian was the nephew of the much more famous Loris-Melikov - Mikhail Tarielovich. The Minister of Internal Affairs, who prepared the text of the first Russian Constitution for Alexander II just before his tragic death.

Loris-Melikov was rebuilt rather modestly for those times, but stylishly - if the facades are not particularly impressive, then the interiors could be the envy of the owners of much more luxurious palaces.

But this should not be seen in the photo. Who is in charge here today is not so important; only some “Green Door” flashes on the maps. But our separate printed thank you for “saving beauty” is unlikely to hurt someone.

There, closer to the boulevard, there is the building of the Rossiya insurance company, which has been mentioned more than once in our essays, one of the most beautiful in Moscow, and the lane also passes by the Lansere house, which is mentioned in the story about Bobrov Lane (Along Bobrov to Sretenka) a lot of flattering words were written.

However, the other day one of its inhabitants, already planning to move out, said that at least two entrances had turned into a kind of hostel where migrants settled. They moved into the house, legendary in its own way, all at once - families and teams, and in a matter of months they managed to make the interiors, which were not the most miserable, miserable in a matter of months.

And since the topic is not the most positive, we cannot help but admit that due to the abundance of parking lots, which are by no means free, simply walking along Milyutinsky is not the greatest pleasure. You can see a lot, but you probably won’t want to look at it for a long time, and, excuse the repetition, there’s nowhere to stop.
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  1. +3
    30 March 2024 13: 49
    Good afternoon to everyone who would like to run for a moment into one of the central districts of old Moscow.
    When looking at the photo of one of the HSE offices, I thought, this is the Main Post Office, it can’t be! But no. The main post office, it seems, is on Tverskaya, but the buildings are somewhat similar. Hmmm... It's been so long since I've been to Moscow!
    And so, if you face the former apartment building built on Lubyanka Square at the end of the 19th century by the Rossiya insurance company, the house that is now the main building of the country's state security agencies of the same name, then the HSE office will appear in the projection somewhere behind him.
    GPS coordinates:
    latitude 55,7615684, longitude 37,6326002.
    I’m talking about the HSE office, not about Lubyanka)))
    The architectural support of the office is noteworthy - to the northeast is the Menshikov Tower, to the west is the Church of St. Louis.
    1. +2
      30 March 2024 19: 33
      The location is worthy of attention good On Myasnitskaya, every house is a story, the most beautiful is adjacent to an ugly one, which even my own father abandoned, and the constructivism of a hundred years ago, performed by the founder, seems to have been built yesterday. By the way, they trained on the Menshikov Tower and built the Peter and Paul Cathedral in St. Petersburg - the ways of the Lord Yes
    2. +1
      April 1 2024 11: 59
      Thank you, Lyudmila Yakovlevna!
      In Moscow, even after a series of demolitions, there are many places where you can stand, and in any direction of the world - either a temple, a courtyard or a monastery.
      I’ve had writer’s lanes waiting in the wings for a long time - Dostoevsky and Chernyshevsky, although everything is not easy there with reference to the author of the first “What is to be done” - after all, you can’t find a single temple.
      People live - they go to Pimen or to Tikhvinskaya
  2. +3
    30 March 2024 19: 21
    What a pity that there is no one but me, people were worried, everyone’s soul was clouded, old Moscow seems to be here, architecturally nearby, mentally it’s infinitely far away... New Moscow creates such powerful reasons for mental suffering, that we don’t want to look at the past (we lived through it, we survived, that’s why it’s paradise in any case), but we’re too dumbfounded to look into the future...
    1. +3
      31 March 2024 13: 12
      And I just silently enjoy these walks around our city.
      Traditionally, *plus* to the author and the article.
      1. +2
        April 1 2024 05: 17
        You are walking somewhere, you are moving somewhere, you are getting faster and faster day by day... I know, I know, it’s not true, we had good relatives and teachers...
        1. +1
          April 1 2024 13: 41
          Not at all. Mobility disappears as life goes on. Although? Sometimes it increases many times.... hi
          1. +1
            April 1 2024 17: 12
            . sometimes it increases many times...

            Yes, sometimes mobility is amazing.
            Like, for example, the mobility of migrants who settled and desecrated the French Quarter of Moscow, the one in which the Church of St. Louis is located.
            And so I wonder whether this would have been possible if our aristocracy, the local nobility and industrialists had not been destroyed at one time. Of course not!
            At the same time, it is worth thinking about the fact that in the West the mentioned social categories have not gone away, they quickly grew into capitalism, but they allow primitive aliens to run rampant in the ancient quarters of their cities, because chaos is needed. They believe that new social categories can only be built out of chaos.
            Architecture and the image of human life initially generated by it - they do not agree.
            1. +2
              April 1 2024 19: 00
              I'm actually talking about elderly Japanese tourists! laughing
              Good evening Lyudmila Yakovlevna!
              Happy April 1st! bully
              1. +2
                April 1 2024 20: 18
                Good evening, Sergey Vladimirovich! )))
                Well, happy holiday to you! )))
                Some medieval people in Europe could not decide when to celebrate the New Year - in January or April, the Januaryists won, the Aprilites became the subject of schadenfreude, then jokes, and the Day appeared... Hmm... According to the site rules, I I can't pronounce this word wassat )))

                Well, yes, about the Japanese. Everyone has their own sore subject. As for me, I'm a homebody. Galloping around the sights? Excuse me! I do not understand this. An architectural miracle comes into view if you pass by every day. Or you look at the photograph for a long time and intently. Now videos have appeared, so much so that I can say with confidence that I visited, for example, Stockholm. Or in Milan. there's plenty on Zen)))
  3. 0
    April 5 2024 09: 07
    Thank you very much to the author for the article. You run around Moscow in the bustle of everyday life and don’t notice its usual appearance. Ask any Muscovite where the sculpture of a knight in armor is installed on Arbat, no, few will answer. We run, we don’t see... Once again, many thanks to the author for the wonderful article.