Alleys of Moscow. Silent Tishinsky
Tishinsky lanes felt sorry for a long time, they remained aloof from large construction projects and rebuilding, the matter was limited to the demolition of something very dilapidated. But now “elite” houses and entire neighborhoods are growing like mushrooms here, and something is being repaired and reconstructed in such a way that you won’t know anything later.
Remember your name
The author deliberately puts spring photographs, rather even late winter ones, in addition to the text, since the indestructible greenery of the capital can embellish any architectural nightmare. However, one cannot but admit that the purely Moscow atmosphere, surprisingly combining efficiency with relaxation, has not yet completely disappeared from Tishinsky lanes.
Local residents of the current very much like to associate the name of Tishinsky lanes with the silence characteristic of the area. However, such grace is, one might say, a gift from the XNUMXst century, when the Tishinsky market went into oblivion, and developers came to the station backyards and old industrial sites.
It was they who began to creatively call the area of Tishinskaya Square and lanes the “quiet center”. And one of the arguments in favor of such courage is the fact that not far from the Tishinsky lanes in the house on Malaya Gruzinskaya passed the last years of the life of Vladimir Vysotsky.
In fact, in the XNUMXth century, the lanes of the village of Tishino received the name Tishinsky, connecting Gruzinsky streets with the rampart, which later became Presnensky. Today, only Bolshoi Lane runs like this, Maly Lane has become a dead end, resting on a residential building dominating Tishinskaya Square, and Sredny Lane ends already at Malaya Gruzinskaya Street.
No question
Silence on Tishinsky, in fact, reigned not so long ago, while the local market with the well-known flea market was functioning, life was simply in full swing here. The bustle, of course, was added by the station, Aleksandrovsky, Brestsky, and now Belorussky, which was the first to meet the winners from the fronts of the Great Patriotic War.
It is not surprising that trophy goods were traded on Tishinka until the 70s. At least some kind of cleansing was carried out only for the Moscow Olympiad, which was completely failed to be done in 1957 for the World Festival of Youth and Students.
Many believe that the last episode of "Operation Y" was filmed on Tishinka, but this is not so - the hero of the comedy was the market in the city of Babushkin, that is, in the current Losinka. However, the Tishinsky market was filmed in many other films, including in the cult series with Vysotsky - "The meeting place cannot be changed."
Georgian spirit...
Tishinka is next to the old Moscow district - Georgians, here is the Georgian Wall, and the square, and Bolshaya and Malaya streets, and the obligatory monument of the work of Zurab Tsereteli. The local public immediately compared it to something indecent, and in August 2008 the idea of demolition even arose.
However, the author of the “finger to the sky” was friends with the then mayor of the capital, and that “strange war” in Abkhazia and South Ossetia, hopefully, did not hurt much Russian-Georgian friendship. The place of the former Tishinsky market has long been occupied by a shopping center, and many of Tsereteli's creations, less pompous, are located quite close - on Georgian Square.
However, the spirit of Transcaucasia - not Georgian, but Armenian, can still be found in one of the Tishinsky lanes - Bolshoy. There, under the pressure of the city authorities, the gallery of the late sculptor and artist Niko Nikoghosyan is still alive and pleases guests, both with extraordinary architecture and a unique collection of sculpture and painting.
And the Polish trail
The Niko Gallery was built by the master himself on the site of sheds and a wasteland in the rear near the new building of the embassy of the Polish People's Republic, which was being built around the same years. The Polish cultural center, once one of the most popular places among the capital's beau monde, is also located there - between Bolshoi Tishinsky and Klimashkina Street, which can be easily written down as Tishinsky.
A little away from our lanes and also on Malaya Gruzinskaya, right in front of Vysotsky's house, you can admire an architectural masterpiece that Muscovites rightly consider purely Polish. This is the Roman Catholic Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception of the Blessed Virgin Mary.
The neo-Gothic temple, built on the eve of the Revolution by the architect Foma Bogdanovich-Dvorzhetsky, turned out to be so beautiful that, by and large, it was not touched even at the time when it was closed. He was damaged by bombs, his spire was demolished and converted into a hostel, but he survived.
And at the end of the last century, it was returned to the Catholics, restored, and, in addition to its main function, it turned into a concert venue, no less popular than the Conservatory or the Tchaikovsky Hall.
At the entrance and at the exit
The Tushinskys avoid big noise, largely due to the peculiarities of the geography of the capital. You can enter here from bustling places only by going through some other places. And to get out - onto the roadway of busy, but not always crowded streets and squares.
For example, along another lane with the original name Electric, the former Sokolovsky, in which one of the first power plants in Moscow was built. The well-known Moscow philanthropist Firsanov was noted there, the one after whom one of the platforms on the Oktyabrskaya railway was named and not even renamed.
It was she who invested in the Serednikovo estate, now extremely popular with tourists, where the young Mikhail Lermontov and his later relative, Prime Minister Pyotr Stolypin, visited. And in Electric, she built an almshouse - the House for Widows and Orphans, in the neighborhood of which Prusakov's baths, one of the most beautiful in Moscow, turned out to be successful.
There is, in fact, only one exit from Tishinsky lanes. Bolshoy Tishinsky, if you climb it, leads directly to the former bakery No. 5, one of the typical “round” ones, which has now been converted into the center of the Soviet avant-garde and constructivism “Zotov”. Named after the legendary people's commissar of the food industry, who launched the mass production of bread not only in Moscow, but throughout the country.
The time of contemporaries
In addition to Vysotsky and Tsereteli, the brilliant actress Tatyana Okunevskaya lived in the Tishinsky district, really seen by the general public only in Pyshka and Alexander Parkhomenko, and much later, already elderly, in Star of Captivating Happiness and Return of the Resident. Film director Eldar Ryazanov and science fiction writer Kir Bulychev were neighbors with her.
During the renovation of the main building on Trubnaya Square in Sredny Tishinsky Lane, in the former Serafimovich House of Culture, built in the late 20s for the workers of the Aviapribor plant, the School of the Modern Play theater moved for four seasons. This, of course, hit attendance hard, and some of the stars, for example, Albert Filozov, alas, did not wait to return home.
It remains to be noted that life in Tishinsky lanes today is really quite quiet - there are few shops, there are no supermarkets at all, and cafes and beauty salons are mostly small, sometimes tiny. Schools and kindergartens are hiding in courtyards, although it is becoming more and more difficult to do this, since new buildings immediately turn into a kind of reservation behind powerful fences.
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