Alleys of Moscow. Innocently killed - Kostomarovsky and surroundings
Where is it, the city of our memory?
According to past publications from this series, grateful readers may have a somewhat false and almost blissful impression of the capital's lanes. And this, despite the ruthless, but constructive criticism of architectural pearls, and complaints about the fact that good traditions are gradually leaving old Moscow.
The city, and especially such a metropolis as the Russian capital, will never again be able to live a quiet, almost provincial life in its courtyards and lanes, and will not remain frozen. Even St. Petersburg or Venice, who have seen it, will agree that they cannot be deprived of the achievements of modern technologies, mainly in terms of housing and communal services and infrastructure, and a little bit of IT.
However, progress is not necessarily the destruction of everything obsolete. Rotten, unrecoverable - yes, but not something that served and could serve people for a long time. Why such a long speech? And besides, in Kostomarovsky Lane, and at the same time around it, too much of just such was destroyed without a trace.
You will have to start, however, not even from houses and not from yards, but from a tunnel - an old tram under the railway tracks. This object is now littered with building soil, because once it was not bothered to write it down in the architectural heritage.
This is how the place looks like today, where until recently trams went to Syromyatniki and Artplay
But today, directly in the mayor's office, they even say that he allegedly will not go anywhere and will be returned to the city. To a reasonable question when, the answer should be immediate - as soon as the global reconstruction of the railways, the station and the surrounding area is completed. I would like to believe, but the experience of building all the cyclopean transport hubs in Moscow suggests otherwise - if something is done, then at best with "stylization under".
And so it was at the turn from Kostomarovsky to Syromyatniki a few years ago
Just a few more words about the tunnel - it not only made several tram routes in Syromyatniki and nearby convenient, it also created a unique atmosphere on the passage to the Artplay design center. What will happen to TPU? I have no doubt, just another plastic pass-through without a soul and without a heart.
It's wandering down the alley
The lane itself, once quite green, connecting the vicinity of the Kursk railway station with the banks of the Yauza, the Andronikov Monastery and the estate Naydenovsky park, with the cultural and already cult centers Winzavod and Artplay, has long ago turned into just a street loaded with rush hour most I can't.
The name of the lane was bestowed by the local landowner, and for many years along it, turning somewhere to the right - to the park, many of those who went south or along the Gorky branch went to eat and drink. Often, the route of Venechka Erofeev - to Petushki.
Our institute in Petushki had a sports camp and a dispensary, but while waiting for the train, students rarely got to the park, it was a long way to return for beer later. In addition, patients from the sports medicine clinic wandered around the park, and often under guard - which could drive.
The Sakharov center next to the Kostomarovsky bridge with more loyal guards, but with a strong fence, settled there much later - in the 90s. It is interesting that, as if a counterweight to it, on the other side of the Yauza, not so long ago, sculptures by Rukavishnikov, including the Master with Margarita, were set up.
In my opinion, some are not convincing, and even with a limousine like the legendary Goering "Horch". All this takes root where the Garden Ring rolls over the Yauza, rather badly. A club-type restaurant, that is, consider that a hangout called "Sleeve" - it just falls apart.
Going down to the river
Going down the Kostomarovsky to the Yauza, today you can’t make out, due to endless reconstructions, a couple more characteristic objects from the not very distant past. The first is house number 3, a garment factory, the former Joint Stock Company MARS, which was named after Clara Zetkin in 1922 (in the photo she is with her friend Rosa Luxembourg). Of course, at the request of the workers - but how could it be otherwise, especially since the old woman visited the factory.
Remember how Bulgakov’s Sharikov said: “Moskvoshveya, Moskvoshveya!” This is about the same factories, and the one on Kostomarovsky was listed in the trust at number 10. The building of the Palace of Culture of Metrostroy also bears the same address - house 3 along the lane, also being reconstructed, since it is still a monument of late constructivism.
It is interesting that the Metrostroy in Moscow had several Palaces of Culture, only at the exit from the capital along the Yaroslavl Highway there are two of them, one for children. The other was built according to the classic Stalinist standard project and handed over to the New Theater back in the 80s, where Vyacheslav Nevinny played in his last performances.
Not badly preserved, but now there is a three-story residential building with clogged windows, where the apartment of aircraft engine designer Arkady Shvetsov was located. He was considered a real competitor to the legendary Arkhip Lyulka, the founder of the Saturn Design Bureau. Regional United Russia members have been sitting here for many years, but they recently moved out to a more modern office.
The house with the coat of arms of the RSFSR on the facade, which was visible from the temples of the Andronikov Monastery and even from the trains that went along the bridge over the Yauza, did not survive the global reconstruction. In place of him and others from among those demolished along the alley, two- and three-story, more coastal soil did not allow, neat, but featureless dental clinics and beauty salons grew up.
Silent Neighbors
The neighbors of Kostomarovsky, who was lucky first of all with the name, because it has not changed, have interesting names and destinies. Although renaming is also in full order here - not once or twice, as they say. We will note only a few - from among the Syromyatnicheskihs, only the 3rd, since Kostomarovsky grows out of it, as well as Mentor and two Poluyaroslavsky - Big and Small.
More than half a century ago, Trety Syromyatnichesky was dominated by a huge 12-storey typovukha with jewelry stores constantly replacing each other - especially for visitors from the south. Not so long ago, even more bulky business centers and office buildings grew up next to it. History in this lane, both in fact and in life, is a thing of the past.
Near the station, nothing can be done, although it only seems. In Rome, a city very crap not so much by tourists as by pilgrims and just migrants, the area around the Tremini station is very pretty. There are many, even a lot of hotels, but there are also museums very close, including in the baths of Diocletian, where there is also a temple, and cafes with restaurants, and there are enough squares with fountains.
The Roman Grand Station was rebuilt under Duce Mussolini, but in Moscow Kursky is much later, and they are still rebuilding it, but why was there another super-elite residential complex "Chkalov" a few steps away, like a false tooth, like a fang, build? And on the other three "our" lanes, by now there is almost nothing left that has not been rebuilt or built anew.
Is it any wonder that visa centers of unfriendly countries (pictured) and a clinic of molecular medicine are located here today. But in general, Bolshoy Poluyaroslavsky Lane merges with Small Lane at the green fence of Naydenovsky Park and goes down to the embankment - again, Poluyaroslavskaya.
To say nothing about this title is to puzzle and even offend the inquisitive reader. And therefore - no secrets and, alas, nothing to do with the city of Yaroslavl. It’s just that either the director or the owner of the Cloth Factory, which grew up here under Anna Ioannovna in the XNUMXth century, was Ivan Poluyaroslavtsev.
Finally, Nastavnichesky Lane was at first Edinoverchesky, because the lands of the Old Believers' monastery were located nearby. The new name was also given to him by the Old Believers-bespriests, who had mentors as clerics.
Of the attractions in the alley, only the Scientific Research Institute of Precious Metals is known, which grew out of the Moscow workshop of the Shchelkovo plant. Only a very good view of the opposite bank of the Yauza and the bell tower of the Church of St. Sergius of Radonezh reconciles with him - Mentor, in fact, empty.
- Alexey Podymov
- author, pastvu.com, um.mos.ru, Alexander Ivanov
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