Alleys of Moscow. Shall we turn to Romanov? - On Granovsky!
Sheremetyevo frame
The passion for renaming is incurable, apparently, because being noted in stories literally everyone wants. At one time, the name of the famous historian Granovsky was given to the former Romanov Lane, which, by the way, was called differently.
But let's pay tribute to the boyar Nikita Ivanovich Romanov - he lived here in the middle of the XNUMXth century. He was a cousin of the grandfather of Peter I, Tsar Mikhail Fedorovich, and it was from him, a lover of river walks, that his great-nephew got the famous “boat of Peter the Great”.
The lane was both Nikitsky, then Khitrov, and already on it the architect Bazhenov built a classic mansion for Count Razumovsky. Soon all the lands near the Kremlin passed to the Sheremetevs, along with the alley from Vozdvizhenka to Bolshaya Nikitskaya, which was considered the Sheremetev yard.
And only then it was recognized as a passable lane, and it bore its noble name before the revolution, which is also noted on the maps in the Atlas of the Tourist - rather late, 1989 release. The Sheremetyevs put in order the baroque church of the end of the XNUMXth century, which is still called the temple of the icon of the Sign of the Most Holy Theotokos in Sheremetev yard.
They also completed the Bazhenov mansion. In Komarovo, near St. Petersburg, the Sheremetyevsky longboat is nothing more than a song fantasy, but near the Kremlin, this rich, almost like the Romanovs, family was noted thoroughly. However, the Razumovsky-Sheremetyev mansion, the main one in the Sheremetyevsky frame, and in fact a real palace, is now not visible from the facade.
By the beginning of the XNUMXth century, it had become very dilapidated and was carefully hidden by a capital apartment building with the Peterhof Grand Hotel. After the Civil War, this building on the corner of Vozdvizhenka and Mokhovaya became essentially an office building - it was given over to the reception of workers, soldiers and peasants' deputies, as well as trade union functionaries.
In it, among other things, was the legendary reception room of Mikhail Ivanovich Kalinin, the long-term chairman of the All-Union Central Executive Committee, nicknamed the all-Union headman. It is interesting that now a completely democratic cafe has settled almost in the same place, on the ground floor. This is a favorite place for student hangouts for several faculties of Moscow State University at once, including the Faculty of Journalism.
A year and a half ago, you could have a bite to eat there, keeping within three or four hundred rubles, and a glass of quite good Chilean cracker cost 200-250. For several years, part of the first and second floors on Vozdvizhenka opposite the Lenin Library was occupied by the Respublika bookstore, which is open around the clock and therefore even more popular, especially with students.
The student does not sink, the student swims
Alas, this store with a music department and a cafe, like the entire Respublika chain, did not survive the pandemic and the associated demand crisis. It is strange, but, as if to replace it, almost immediately these days another bookstore began to work, which has both more expensive goods and a pretentious name - "Dostoevsky".
There, as, indeed, in Romanov Lane itself, students are not very drawn to, especially since the coffee house in Dostoevsky is not only not cheap, but also cut off from books. And if we are talking about Moscow State University, and at the same time about the readers of Leninka, now half empty, one cannot help but recall a couple of courtyards between Mokhovaya and Romanov with entrances from the alley.
You can still get into them not only from Romanov Lane, but also from the old university buildings, both on business and just to retire and smoke in silence. And no one here was embarrassed by the proximity to the Kremlin hospital (one of the many buildings, of course, not medical, on the corner of Vozdvizhenka) and for a very short time - with a private psychiatric clinic.
They joked about this back in the late 90s, especially since managers replaced psychiatrists. It was under them that the business center "Romanov", and "Romanov-cinema", and a fitness club were erected here. All this functions neither shaky nor rolls, filmmakers are poorly helped even by a commercial university, cunningly called the Faculty of Arts.
It’s just that they are mowing down under Moscow State University, since the church of St. Tatiana is nearby - almost in the same building. When the lane got its oldest name "Romanov" back, they hardly wanted to please the modern descendants of the imperial family. The lane was supposed to become a gastronomic one. And the calculation was clearly made on the sonority of the name and on the local contingent.
And these are not only students and teachers of Moscow State University with their modest incomes, who did not justify the hopes of reenactors, but also the public from the cool departments of the capital's government, as well as residents of elite houses. And about one of them - a separate conversation.
marshal house
It was only later that he was called marshal, when residents from among the first persons of the country moved out of the house or fell under repression. The Sheremetyevs built a lot, and one of their last buildings was the former profitable house of Alexander Dmitrievich, not the most famous representative of the dynasty, at number three along the lane.
A house with lions, whose noses are regularly rubbed for good luck, even today it really adorns the street-lane. At the end of the XNUMXth century, the architect Meissner did his best and, without being carried away by modernity, created a true masterpiece of some kind of Moscow renaissance.
In the green courtyard there is a fountain, which is inaccessible to anyone except the residents. The apartments are not just large, but luxurious, although some of them were ruthlessly compacted in the 20s and 30s, of course, not without loss. A lot has been written about this house, there is even a book, but even more is written about those who lived in it.
From one listing of their names, I want to stand at attention. Molotov and Zhdanov, Khrushchev, Kaganovich, Malenkov and Kosygin, Trotsky and Stalin's relatives, and finally, those same marshals - Budyonny and Voroshilov, Zhukov and Rokossovsky. Painstaking Muscovites counted nineteen commemorative plaques on the house alone, and only on the outer walls. Now, maybe more, who knows.
It so happened that immediately after the revolution, when the government moved from Petrograd, the house was finally cleared of artists from the Bolshoi and musicians of the conservatory, whom A.D. Sheremetyev took care of, it became the fifth House of Soviets in a row. After the "National", "Metropol", the Theological Seminary on Bozhedomka and the already mentioned "Peterhof".
All apartments in the House of Soviets were equipped with water supply and sewerage, electricity and heating on heaters. But there were no elevators. In the 80s, walking from Voentorg or Leninka, I saw more than once how dozens of black Volgas and even ZILs with Chaikas lined up along Granovsky Street. Not everyone left here for Spiridonovka, Kutuzovsky Prospekt or Rublyovka.
During the war, a bomb shelter was built in the basement of one of the entrances, which, according to legend, was connected to the Kremlin cellars. But this did not cancel the evacuation of residents, followed by a by no means universal return.
There is nothing to compare with house number three on Granovsky Street, although the seemingly two-story mansion that closes it, usually called the Talyzin estate, is recorded in the architectural heritage. But, rather, it is a headache for a true connoisseur of architecture and the capital itself. Only a specialist will see the traces of the estate here, and all this is the result of countless and almost continuous repairs, reconstructions and restorations.
It remains only to note that the name of Granovsky was taken away from the lane, perhaps in vain. Timofei Nikolayevich was, after all, a professor at Moscow University, and in his time not one of the faculties had traveled far - to Leninsky, now Sparrow Hills - had yet to leave.
- Alexey Podymov
- author, pastvu.com, mosday.ru, telegra.ph, alamy.com, foto-basa.com
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