“Only the eternal flame will burn out anyway
Let this dream be good, but also not eternal "
Let this dream be good, but also not eternal "
For a long time I was going to think about how to tell about what I saw and heard. You know, I've heard so many arguments lately when I talked about our sanctions losses “But Crimea is ours,” that it became interesting for me to see for myself how it is there, in our Crimea.
And I was not interested in Sevastopol, and, of course, not in Yalta. With them, just everything is clear and did not feel drawn there. And the hero city of Kerch was very interesting to me. As I thought - undeservedly ignored. All roads usually ran to the side, and the maximum that was known to the average man about Kerch was Adzhimushkai at best.
I had a plan: to seek help from the East Crimean Historical and Cultural Museum-Reserve, which is located in the city of Kerch and is the concentration of historical and cultural information in the city and its environs. On the model and likeness of how I filmed reports and wrote articles in various museums in our country.
That is, in order not to poke at the navigator screen, not to look for what and where, I thought that the museum would simply tell me where to pay attention and what to tell about.
Yeah, now ... I haven't gotten between my eyes for a long time ...
To begin with, I contacted the museum by phone, which was given as the one that resolves all issues with the media. And I kind of like a media representative, and even the most suitable in the profile.
+7 (36561) 64769. The phone is a symbol of disappointment.
To begin with: in our Crimea, employees of state institutions do not introduce themselves. By no means. As I understand it, they are all classified. So who I talked to, I have no idea.
I behaved very decently: I introduced myself, told what I, in fact, would like from the museum. Information about the places of battles (except for Adzhimushkaya, I myself know about him), significant cultural and historical locations and so on. In order to tell your readers, they may find it necessary to visit these places.
Six (!!!) people listened to me, and safely retreated. Somewhere they switched the call, someone called. Madam Anonymus. Not one introduced (despite my requests). And each, after listening to my tirade, sighed with relief and gave out the phrase that she was not doing this.
The question is, what the devil are you even grabbing the phone for?
And only the seventh anonymous interlocutor knew where to go. To Simferopol. There, in the Ministry of Culture of Crimea, it will be necessary to submit a number of documents, and when the Ministry issues us accreditation, they will talk to us. But not before. And she also took her leave with relief.
In general, everything became clear, to clear my conscience, I dialed the very Ministry of Culture of Crimea by phone +7 (3652) 544-327 and asked how long such questions are usually processed. A very polite girl said slyly: “In accordance with the deadlines set by the law. But we usually get things done faster. Two weeks".
Well, it's my own fault, I had to apply for a month. But the trouble is, the trip spontaneously turned out to be 200% and I had one week before departure.
And then I realized that nothing would work out with the museum and I would look for what is good and what is bad in Crimea myself. Without outside help.
To be honest, you don't have to try too hard. Nobody hides anything, because as soon as we move away from the topic of puzogreism and turn towards cultural recreation, Crimea begins to show its true face. Quite original.
So, the hero city of Kerch.
I set myself the task of choosing epithets for this city. I chose two words: indifferent and unlucky.
Indeed, for a hero city he is too ... neglected or something. Moreover, the whole. Both the roads and the decoration of the streets are covered with some kind of provincial mold.
Someone will be surprised, but in Crimea at every corner there are figovines with the joyful news that Crimea is 7 years old at home! And the signs and signs are still there, in Ukraine. And nothing, everyone is happy with everything.
And people are peculiar. I talked with the workers of the "Zaliv" (this is generally a separate topic) and with ordinary residents. Well, there were two of us, and we were able to get the dead man talking. So, judging by the conversations of local residents, they do not need either tourists or holidaymakers. They need to be left alone. And the most terrible times for them, it turns out, were the times when Ukraine closed the borders and Russian vacationers went to Crimea via a ferry.
Very strange people, to be honest.
So, finding ourselves without the support of knowledgeable people, we began to act at our own peril and risk. That is, to look for something that the so-called Internet can reach. In fact, a certain provider "Volna-2" was able to indicate that I had the Internet and nothing more. What kind of money it flies into, in principle, everything is already in the know.
In general, communication in the Crimean international roaming is something. Something slow and sad and expensive. Constantly missed corners due to the dull internet, but once it even benefited.
We decided to start by climbing Mount Mithridates. As they decided, they refused. The staircase, not inferior to the one in Odessa, was blocked, because there was a renovation.
Okay, such trifles could not stop us, and therefore we undertook a roundabout maneuver and entered from the rear. In the rear, everything was fine, on a small platform there was a mobile coffee pot and two whole merchants. And an observation deck overlooking the bridges.
The inspection showed that all the repairs on Mithridates are the re-laying of tiles on the site by three representatives ... yes, everything is fine, they are already there. The tile is in good hands. As soon as the entire memorial was closed for this, I am not sure that I know the correct answer.
The Eternal Flame was made very beautifully and with a good idea. True, it is not eternal, because it did not burn. So, in general, it would probably look beautiful from bridges, but alas. And why it doesn’t burn, no one really could explain. It just doesn't burn. "Not a season" - suggested one of the souvenir sellers.
In general, this phrase should be remembered, this is the new motto of the whole Crimea. "Out of season" - and you can not give a damn if not all, then the main majority of problems.
Ask, why didn’t I get into all sorts of administrations there to find out? So it was Sunday ... But about the weekend - it will be a little lower, with photos.
In general, the fact that the Eternal Flame is not such in the hero-city of Kerch was somewhat disappointing. We are from the city to which the Hero was not given, now just a city of military glory, but THREE Eternal Flames are burning. No problem.
Let's move on.
Next, we have excavations of the Greek city of Panticapaeum.
Ancient city. Excavations. It all looks like no one really cares about this Panticapaeum. Here in Anapa, too, in the center of the city, there is a museum of archeology and excavations of the settlement of the same Greeks. But for some reason it looks very civilized. The excavation is fenced off, there is nothing for outsiders to do.
Passed, looked, saw everything. You can take a photo.
Everything is simple in Panticapaeum. Open to everyone. The only thing is that there are signs urging you not to climb the masonry. on them, of course, everyone spits, who needs to be photographed on the masonry. Everything is falling apart, children are running around ancient buildings, even adults are climbing. Everything is surprising somehow.
Like a monument. But the monument is strange and one gets the impression that no one needs it. Therefore, everything looks more like ruins, which will soon be simply taken away for souvenirs. unpleasant experience, to be honest.
Then we went to Adzhimushkay.
It was not possible to get into the quarry due to the fault of the Ministry of Defense. In the Crimea, the most TE maneuvers were going on, and the Ministry of Defense decided to acquaint the soldiers with the historical heritage in their free time from combat work. Good thought, no questions asked.
An army truck can be seen quite normally in the parking lot. Every hour another one of the same drove up and the groups walked one after another. You should have seen the faces with which the soldiers left the dungeons, so here I am not offended. Next time I'll go.
There is a terrible mess on the territory of the memorial. It's amazing how everything was done there. There is parking, but there is no sidewalk from it. You must either walk along the carriageway, or cross the road and trample the lawn in order to reach another sidewalk.
The fence is present in places. Work is underway, but only one question is brewing: is this all that you have been able to do in 7 years?
While the question of the museum is still there ...
There is a monument to the border guards. The border guards are generally great on a national scale. They put their small, inexpensive (visible) but necessary monuments.
And the monument is appropriate for railway workers.
But why not plant bushes, somehow ennoble everything? It turns out that the monuments are just stumbled. Everything is so unkempt ...
In general, not only did not impress Adzhimushkai, but disappointed. The dining room will be built ... It's a good thing, of course. But what people have been doing there for seven years is very difficult to say.
Further, believing the navigator (in vain), we went to the point, which was named as "the Yeni-Kale fortress". The navigator honestly warned that there would be no road there for 300 meters (I didn't lie), but twice led us in the wrong direction on the way. But he brought him to the coastal warehouse with seafood. To be honest, we could not resist, and stocked up decently, because the prices were just very pleasant.
At the same time, the saleswoman explained how to get to the "fortress". Not particularly choosing expressions. "Why do you need these excrements" - so it sounded in translation from a very such Russian. The boatswain's wife, not otherwise.
We reached the fortress ...
Total: this is not a fortress. It is a ruin. Falling apart. Not protected by the state. No signs, no fences or warnings. It's sad. Very sad.
Nobody (unfortunately) needs old stones. Ask a question - the answer will be that the lack of funding is to blame for everything and the like. Strange, the Crimea was choking with money, they could not master the budgets. And here is the attitude to monuments.
Yes, there are still half-bastions not completely destroyed at this fortress in another place, but I simply did not go there, because I did not know the road, and I was already tired of partisans. In any case, in all the sources, Yeni-Kale has the status of "ruins" and a hundred things must be done in an amicable way.
But we will talk about the fortress separately. There will be more fortresses ...
Unfortunately, it was not possible to get to other museums either. Sunday. All closed.
Yes, of course, museum staff are people too. And they need the weekend too. If during the season - then vacationers, in principle, no matter what day to visit the museum. Of course, it's not worth focusing on strangers from the continent. Moreover, such ... critics.
The amazing city of Kerch. On the one hand, it seems to be still sitting in the seventies, on the other, it seems like a card of the same Sberbank is accepted ... Although banks, shops, gas stations - all do not understand whose. But this is the case throughout the Crimea. He seems to be like ours, but who runs the business there is not entirely clear.
In the cities I noticed that there are city flags on every corner. Nice. For one Russian, there will be about a dozen locals for sure.
If we put aside the notorious "season", which everyone is so eagerly awaiting, then everything does not look very nice. Yes, the roads from city to city are simply superb. But in the same Kerch there are so many holes that you start to wonder. Especially after Anapa.
Yes, one can complain that under Ukraine ... Well, how much more can you blame the Ukrainian authorities? Seven years, as it were. And the money immediately went to Crimea. And they went well. So what? Do you have money for banners reminding about this, but not for signs in Russian? And there are no normal roads?
Seven years at home. So it was written on one of the billboards. And what, in seven years the house can be cleaned in any way?
Strange sensations. I expected to see one thing, but in reality ... But in reality, a return to Soviet times. The hero city of Kerch disappointed. There is nothing to catch the eye at all. Blank photos. Well, except, perhaps, shipbuilding, but we will talk about this separately.
Work, it can be seen, is complete. There is something, there is something. Why the second hero city of Crimea looks like a provincial and provincial town is a question for the authorities, of course. There is something to show. But all this needs to be put in order.
Kerch residents, perhaps, “rent apartments and premises inexpensively”, and more work to make it interesting to be in the city for more than two hours?
And, unfortunately, to be continued.