Military Review

Peter. Pandemic. Parks. Monuments

53

You will not find here dramatic stories about heroic doctors, about sick and recovered, and even about stupid officials. Do not expect agitation for or against quarantine and lockdown.


This is nothing more than sketches from nature - about how a large city lives in a pandemic, which once survived the blockade and still has not forgotten how to just work.

At the exit and at the entrance


In the difficult 2020, the author managed to get from Moscow to St. Petersburg twice. Of course, with the suburbs and neighboring Vyborg, Sestroretsk and Kronstadt.

With a rehearsal of the naval parade, which it is better to write about separately, and with a small series of temples and monuments, each of which is connected in its own way with the military history Russia.

The first voyage took place at the exit from the first wave of Covid-19, when we settled not in the city, but in Repino. There was the sea, and the quarantine restrictions were much milder than in the center with closed cafes, museums and theaters. During the second arrival in November - in the midst of the second wave of coronavirus, they settled on the Obvodny Canal.

Where submarines are being designed very close by and still producing a lot of what was previously, and even now, is considered top secret. There is also a small square named after Pyotr Ivanovich Bagration with a quite solid monument to the Russian hero and the Georgian prince.


Well, a little further away - the Old Jaeger Barracks, the very name of which eliminates the need to explain anything. Almost half of the city is built up in St. Petersburg with barracks, headquarters and other kinds of institutions - it happened historically. The number of museums with military themes is hardly inferior to numerous art museums.

Finally, St. Petersburg monuments - among them the military is definitely in the majority. On the travels of 2020, only a few have received special attention from the author. And two - to Admiral Spiridov and General Brusilov, can generally be considered the purpose of the trip.

By the way, during the almost three weeks that the author eventually spent in St. Petersburg, he saw an ambulance with signals only a couple of times and never - doctors dressed in impenetrable gowns and plastic glasses-masks. On the surface, few people are in a hurry in the northern capital under the nineteenth Covid, and there is no hysteria on TV and radio.

We got to the city of Petrov in both arrivals in a personal car along the brand new toll road M-11. On it, even when you go together, it turns out to be cheaper than on the Sapsan. And when there are four, then count it almost for free. Even the money withdrawn from the transponder can be disregarded - the time saved is worth it.

By the way, there is not so much time to Sapsan on M-11 and you lose. Here it took 8-9 hours to get from door to door. And by Sapsanov's four o'clock it is necessary to add the road from home to the hotel, as well as the indispensable waiting for the train.

In general, the road troubles on the routes Moscow - St. Petersburg - Moscow almost did not cause problems. Not counting the fine on duty in late autumn a couple of hundred meters from Petropavlovka.


There is simply a classic trap at the inviting free parking lot near the library. When, due to pedestrians and crowded trams (especially in bad weather), almost no one sees the “one-way traffic” sign. Well, the brick on the road notices when it’s already, what is called "late run."

The silent northern city does not slumber


There is no doubt that Peter is working hard in the fall, in contrast to the short period of white nights, to the fullest. On weekdays, people appear on the streets only after lunch, when it’s time to pick up the kids from schools. There, by the way, gyms are in full swing - this can be seen even through the uncurtained windows.

Meanwhile, in all districts, lights start to light up in factory workshops, research institutes and office centers, which are much smaller here than in Moscow. Almost no one walks the streets in masks, although in shops and the subway they are disciplined to be put on all at once.

The sphere of culture, tourism and service is also fighting for its existence with all its might. Of course, there are not enough people everywhere. There are no Chinese at all. But practically nothing is closed. Although they are about to promise to hang locks at the entrances to stadiums and food courts in supermarkets.

Literally before our very eyes, navigation on the Neva and the canals was completed. Although it will be possible to ride under a direct order until the ice finally rises. Not pleased with the absence of both Russian and trophy banners in the Kazan Cathedral. But the grave of Kutuzov and the keys to the German and French fortresses hung right above it have not gone anywhere.

Of the iconic St. Petersburg objects, perhaps only the good old Ciniselli circus did not work. Yes, the Hermitage exposition in the General Staff building was a little let down. On Thursday, when I was there, there was a free day for people with disabilities, large families and cadets with art students. Yours truly is not on this list.


He was fully satisfied with other excursions. Including the renovated New Holland - which was once a huge warehouse of timber with an addition (in the form of a complete set) naval workshops.

Now New Holland is something like an expanded version of the art space with an open skating rink, cafes and entertainment. But the main thing is with a clear reference to the times of Peter the Great, up to an exact copy of the frigate under construction, which in the summer is given to the power of the little ones.


Directly across from New Holland via the Kryukov Canal is an updated version of the legendary Naval Museum. He moved here not so long ago from the Spit of Vasilievsky Island from the Exchange building. But he received much larger areas, but is still waiting for a large influx of public.

Where is the admiral, where is the general


Is it worth explaining that a visit to Kronstadt, one of the favorite brainchildren of Peter the Great, became a roll call with this museum and New Holland. The city on the island, blown by all the winds, has now become something like the capital of the St. Petersburg dam and comes to life just before our eyes.

Comparison with earlier arrivals there is clearly in favor of our time. And I am especially glad that there are again many sailors in Kronstadt. Until now, the impressive ruins of the Cyclopean baths of the Petrovsky Dock (literally behind the back of the monument to the first Russian emperor) have been taken under special supervision here today.


They were neatly fenced off, made as safe as possible, cleared of trash and thickets. This is because next to the dock there is now the St. Petersburg Patriot Park, which (unlike the pompous Moscow namesake) does not in any way resemble a sort of military-Expo.

Here in late autumn, of course, it is empty, only the last apples in the ennobled garden are pleasing to the eye, but it is quiet and somehow in a special modest way, although on the gate it is written - the Admiralty of Emperor Peter I.


And the alley of admirals is impressive - perhaps the main goal of my autumn voyage to St. Petersburg. The heroes of this alley were not chosen blindly. And the matter was not limited to the decision of a working group of 15 people, which included local historians, historians of the Russian fleet, the military and the director of the park itself.


There was even a vote, and the author is especially pleased that among the best Russian naval commanders Grigory Andreevich Spiridov, the triumphant of Chesma and the hero of several publications on "Military Review" (Chesma. 250 years later: the return of the admiral.).

It remains only to note that the monuments to the admirals on the alley were executed by young St. Petersburg sculptors Ivan Zubarev and Vladislav Mukhanov.

Kronstadt Park "Patriot" gently, even delicately added to the already formed historical ensemble with the Eternal Flame, ship guns of all eras, a monument to Admiral S.O. Makarov and the restored beautiful church of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker. For a reason, he was always considered the patron saint of wanderers, and above all, sailors.


The snow-white cathedral named after him with blue domes, which are decorated with golden anchors, seems to float on sails under leaden Baltic clouds. And it can be seen from almost every point of the city, and the entire island. The interior is so elegantly decorated that at first you don't have the heart to just enter the dome.

However, the scrupulous chronicle of the Russian fleet, engraved in gold letters on the memorial plates around the perimeter of the temple, is even more catchy. Immediately - icons, icons, icons. Only those dedicated to Fyodor Ushakov could count four or five. And the monument to the famous naval commander quite logically stood at the cathedral.

Returning to St. Petersburg, we went to a meeting with another monument - not to the admiral, but to the general. More precisely, to Adjutant General Alexei Alekseevich Brusilov. I don’t know what the logic is, but why General Brusilov, who immediately sided with the Reds, found a place only near the building of the former State Duma of the Russian Empire, I don’t presume to say.


There are plenty of explanations on the Internet, but few people remembered that it was Dumtsev Alexei Alekseevich, by whose name the brilliant breakthrough of the Austro-German front in 1916 was named, in fact, did not really like it. And this is despite the fact that it was the Duma leaders who, having put together their Provisional (not in name, but in fact) Government, gave Brusilov the post of supreme commander in chief.

But as they gave it, they took it away later. Although the Supreme Brusilov was categorically against the failed July 1917 offensive. I do not exclude that a rather extraordinary choice of a point for the monument a few years ago prevented the author from finding it at the intersection of Shpalernaya and Tavricheskaya.

In the worldwide network, which was cut off at the right moment, then it seems that the necessary information did not arrive at all. So the author removed to the side of the Suvorov Museum. However, now I cannot but admit that the monument, executed by Jan Neumann, is very worthy. And although flowers, let's say, it is not overwhelmed, but not forgotten for sure.

Peter. Pandemic. Parks. Monuments

In Moscow, for now, only the modest grave of the famous commander in the Novodevichy Convent. Yes, the same unobtrusive bust by Denis Petrov (pictured above) on the wall of a house in Mansurovsky Lane, where Brusilov once lived. Now the Syrian embassy has settled there, kindly providing a place for a commemorative sign and a sculpture.
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  1. Ilya-spb
    Ilya-spb 25 November 2020 15: 09
    +2
    I was this year at the naval parade. On the day of the Navy. Impressed!
    1. 3x3zsave
      3x3zsave 25 November 2020 20: 50
      +7
      Let me tell you a little secret. On the last Sunday of July, come to the Hermitage (it’s empty and empty on that day), go up to the third floor and enjoy the spectacle!
  2. Van 16
    Van 16 25 November 2020 15: 19
    +8
    Eh, but I didn't manage to go to St. Petersburg this year .. It's a wonderful city, I can't live without it for a long time. As one friend said - "Peter is not just a city, it is a mood and state of mind."
    1. Ingvar 72
      Ingvar 72 25 November 2020 16: 44
      +7
      Quote: Van 16
      A wonderful city, I can't live without it for a long time.

      It is good to go to St. Petersburg on excursions, it is very difficult to move there for permanent residence as an adult, the climate is not the best.
      From the article -
      and there is no tantrum on TV and radio.
      On the other hand, the federal channels are burning to the fullest, and as a result of the panic they have arranged, hospitals are sold out. The mask mode and restrictions were brought to the point of absurdity, you can't wait for an ambulance, because everyone who has lost their scent immediately calls an ambulance. In Togliatti, they reported on the creation of hundreds of hospital beds for patients with Covid 19, but they shyly kept silent about the fact that these places were created at the expense of patients driven home from other departments. In the oncology department, there are only 5 wards out of almost 40. As if there was less oncology. Ugh, window dressing.
      God forbid now to get sick with something else - you will not wait for help.
      P.S. Sorry, it's boiling. And the article is interesting, and Peter is certainly one of the most beautiful cities in the world. hi
      1. 3x3zsave
        3x3zsave 25 November 2020 19: 44
        +6
        it is very difficult to move there for permanent residence as an adult, the climate is not the best.
        "Do not compare with Athens,
        Cool,
        True, the Swedes and the Finns,
        Well, okay ... "(C)
        My sister-in-law (60 years old) is moving to St. Petersburg, from Saratov.
        1. Ingvar 72
          Ingvar 72 26 November 2020 06: 24
          +1
          Quote: 3x3zsave
          My sister-in-law (60 years old) is moving to St. Petersburg, from Saratov.

          It is interesting to know her opinion a year after the move. wink
          Anton, my friend (50 kopecks) lived in St. Petersburg for 4 years, and could not stand the climate, having moved to Krasnodar.
          1. 3x3zsave
            3x3zsave 26 November 2020 06: 54
            +5
            my friend (50 kopecks) lived in St. Petersburg for 4 years, and could not stand the climate, having moved to Krasnodar.
            I agree, the example is indicative of personal experience. Usually the St. Petersburg climate is condemned by people who have not lived in the city for two weeks. And with such pathos, as if worse than Peter, only Cayenne.
            1. Korsar4
              Korsar4 26 November 2020 08: 40
              +2
              I agree with the British:
              "There is no bad weather, there are bad clothes." I haven’t been to such a point on the map where it would be uncomfortable. On the other hand, not the entire annual cycle took place on myself.
      2. Van 16
        Van 16 25 November 2020 19: 45
        +5
        I agree, about the climate, and about window dressing, and about a beautiful city.
    2. 3x3zsave
      3x3zsave 25 November 2020 19: 47
      +2
      "In rain wi trust" (С)
      Come!
      1. depressant
        depressant 25 November 2020 20: 06
        +4
        Once I visited St. Petersburg as a student.
        May, dazzling sun, Isaac and terrible wind, dampness and cold. I have never been so cold in my life! )))
        By the way, the competition for ownership of New Holland was won at one time by Roman Abramovich. All transformations, repairs - at his expense. Knowledgeable people say: investments will not be repulsed))
        1. 3x3zsave
          3x3zsave 25 November 2020 20: 58
          +4
          and cold. I have never been so cold in my life!
          "You can't get used to the cold, you can learn to endure it" (R. Amundsen)
          It's funny, rightly so, Lyudmila Yakovlevna, but I, having lived all my life in the North-West, learned to endure the heat.
          1. Hantengri
            Hantengri 25 November 2020 21: 10
            +2
            Quote: 3x3zsave
            I, having lived all my life in the Northwest, learned to endure the heat.

            And what? Straight, really hot? Straight +45, in the shade?)))
            1. 3x3zsave
              3x3zsave 25 November 2020 21: 24
              +3
              Igor! hi
              "Throw your jokes"!
              Have you been to Rhodes?
              1. Hantengri
                Hantengri 25 November 2020 21: 54
                +3
                You don't have to scare me with your Rhodes, mine in summer and it's hot without him! For me, summer vacation is to dump wherever it is, where it is still warm enough, but still a little cool.)))
                1. 3x3zsave
                  3x3zsave 25 November 2020 22: 06
                  +4
                  That is, Khibiny does not suit you either?
                  1. Hantengri
                    Hantengri 25 November 2020 22: 36
                    +3
                    Now, probably not. But, somewhere, in the period from July 10 to August 20, my attitude towards the Khibiny can still radically change.
                    1. 3x3zsave
                      3x3zsave 25 November 2020 22: 44
                      +4
                      You, etta, be more careful, for God's sake! Sharply changing +45 in the shade, +15 in the sun, is fraught with the body.
          2. depressant
            depressant 25 November 2020 22: 19
            +2
            Anton, who lived most of her life in the south, has adapted to the heat of 40 degrees in the shade - humid, suffocating, painful. Everyone is lying down, or they can barely walk, like boiled ones, and I run. Do you know what humid heat is in the subtropics? This is scary! )))
            Therefore, settling in the suburbs, I believed that I would be very cold in winter. It turned out not. And then suddenly I discovered, about three years later, that the hot northern summer is not to my liking, I can hardly walk, like boiled)))
            But now the blessed global warming of the climate has come, the clouds are constantly covering the summer sky near Moscow, and I am glad! Sometimes in the summertime you even have to turn on the gas to keep warm. But for some reason it seems to me that in St. Petersburg it should become warmer)))
            1. 3x3zsave
              3x3zsave 25 November 2020 22: 25
              +4
              Peter is slowly becoming a seaside resort.
              1. depressant
                depressant 25 November 2020 22: 58
                +4
                Very happy about you! ))
                By the way! Do you have sparrows? All last winter I fed them, as if they were running, they chirped insolently, sat on the windowsills, looked into the windows, went out, poured food into the trough, and summer came - not one! There are mosquitoes, no sparrows. I became mosquito food. They stopped atrocities only a week ago. The first snow fell, the sparrows should starve, the feeder is full - not a single bird! There are not even crows. A pair of titmouses is grazing. Seagulls don't come. I don’t understand what is happening.
                1. 3x3zsave
                  3x3zsave 25 November 2020 23: 06
                  +5
                  Sparrows, pigeons, crows, gulls, rooks, blackbirds, starlings, nightingales, swallows ... Everything is there. Moreover, in the city.
                  1. Paranoid50
                    Paranoid50 27 November 2020 13: 41
                    +2
                    Quote: 3x3zsave
                    Everything is. Moreover, in the city.

                    Bullfinches arrive - in winter, photos from different parts of the city are regularly seen. Waxworms are also present - a few years ago, the entire urban population went into binge for a week. wassat In late autumn, the weather was abnormally warm, and the rowan berries, which the birds ate, fermented corny ... People, bumping into birds lying on the ground, certainly could not imagine that in front of them were not dead at all, but birds that had eaten into the trash.fellow Some birds, having dined on "merry berry", showed signs of aggression, attacking passers-by. In short, everything is like people. yes
                    1. 3x3zsave
                      3x3zsave 27 November 2020 15: 02
                      +4
                      Yeah. I read about drunk waxwings, Prishvin's, or what? ... I haven't seen it myself
      2. Van 16
        Van 16 25 November 2020 20: 18
        +3
        I will definitely come! I'm starting to run wild without Peter)) No, seriously, when I'm not there for a long time - something is missing.
        1. depressant
          depressant 25 November 2020 21: 13
          +5
          Yes, photos and videos do not give a complete picture of reality, which can be incredibly beautiful. I remember that I’m standing in front of the "Ninth Wave" in the Russian Museum and I don’t believe my eyes: the water is alive! The sun shines through it! I expected everything, but that the picture in reality is so huge that you can drown in it - no. In art albums, the size of the canvas is always indicated, but one thing is to indicate, the other is to see.
          Yes, Peter must be seen. I don't know how it is now, but in the last century there was a truly endless number of old quarters, as if you find yourself in another world, in another century.
          1. 3x3zsave
            3x3zsave 25 November 2020 21: 32
            +4
            I don't know how it is now, but in the last century there was a truly endless number of old quarters, as if you find yourself in another world, in another century.
            There is now, come and show.
            1. depressant
              depressant 25 November 2020 21: 36
              +3
              Anton, I'm afraid to be crowned))))
          2. Van 16
            Van 16 26 November 2020 04: 10
            +4
            Yes, "The Ninth Wave" is impressive, as well as Peter himself. It's really a different world.
  3. tihonmarine
    tihonmarine 25 November 2020 15: 27
    +5
    There was no place for the red General Brusilov in the new capitalist country.
    1. Fan-fan
      Fan-fan 26 November 2020 09: 05
      0
      There was no place for Admiral Kolchak
      And the alley of admirals is impressive
      probably fought for the "whites" and therefore decided to ignore him, so to speak, delete him from Russian history.
      1. tihonmarine
        tihonmarine 26 November 2020 10: 03
        0
        Quote: Fan-Fan
        There was no place for Admiral Kolchak

        An interesting personality, but no more. Who sent him, who supplied him to fight the Bolsheviks. And he deleted himself from the admirals of the Russian fleet.
      2. Glory1974
        Glory1974 26 November 2020 10: 29
        0
        probably fought for "whites" and therefore decided to ignore him, so to speak, delete him from Russian history.

        You cannot erase it from history. But re-abolition was denied, as he committed war crimes, and against his own people. Therefore, the monument is not worthy.
        1. Fan-fan
          Fan-fan 26 November 2020 11: 05
          0
          There are no documents on his personal participation in war crimes. But in Russia there are many monuments to those who personally initiated the massacres and executions without trial. But he has many merits to Russia.
          "The Japanese, our enemies - and they left me a weapon. You will not get it either!" - Kolchak said to the revolutionaries and threw overboard a personalized golden saber when these revolutionaries arrested him: the commander of the Black Sea Fleet.
          1. Glory1974
            Glory1974 26 November 2020 11: 24
            +1
            Personally, he may not have shot him, but he signed such orders, so the prosecutor's office refused rehabilitation.
            A monument to Mannerheim was recently erected in St. Petersburg. After a big scandal, they were removed. On the one hand, a Russian officer and he has a lot of merit, but on the other, the leader of the enemy state and his troops surrounded the city from the north, carrying out a blockade, which means he is guilty of the death of the townspeople from hunger.
  4. Daniil Konovalenko
    Daniil Konovalenko 25 November 2020 15: 38
    +2
    Monuments and busts without masks, not finalized by the local administration.smile
    1. depressant
      depressant 25 November 2020 21: 40
      0
      Daniel, yes you are creative - this is a quite working idea!))) You look, and a line will appear in Peter's budget, additional funding from the budget will be required, hehe!
  5. antivirus
    antivirus 25 November 2020 15: 52
    +3
    in NG Holland it was more interesting in 06g - everything is natural, without gloss. albeit with Soviet paints and repairs, plasters (in places).
    without new "installations".
    beams and logs of stairs, floors - darkened, perhaps not of the 20th century.
    only, they haven't opened it yet, the servicemen left.
  6. Aviator_
    Aviator_ 25 November 2020 16: 08
    +6
    I wonder if there is a memorial plaque in New Holland on the house where Viktor Konetsky lived? In his writings, this area is described in detail with autobiographical accuracy. Is the Krustein Canal there?
    1. podymych
      25 November 2020 17: 50
      +5
      Thank you for reminding. I searched even earlier, but alas, I did not find anything in the memory of Viktor Viktorovich ...
      1. 3x3zsave
        3x3zsave 25 November 2020 20: 00
        +3
        Hmmm, I didn't see either, alas ...
    2. Ilya22558
      Ilya22558 26 November 2020 09: 41
      +3
      The board, if any, is not in New Holland, but on the contrary, on the residential buildings of the Admiralty Canal embankment.
      1. Ilya22558
        Ilya22558 26 November 2020 09: 56
        +3
        Correction, there is a board on the residential building No. 9, the embankment of the Admiralty Canal (formerly Krustein)
        1. Aviator_
          Aviator_ 26 November 2020 15: 06
          0
          Thanks for the photo. As I understand it, Krustein's channel was renamed in the 90s during a fit of anti-Soviet hysteria - decommunization, however! Well, at least the bridge was not noticed, it remained - the Krushtein Bridge. (Konetsky wrote that Krustein was unlucky twice - firstly, he was killed in this area, and secondly, then he was always confused with Kruzenshtern).
      2. Aviator_
        Aviator_ 26 November 2020 15: 07
        0
        In New Holland, it seems, and there were no residential buildings, Konetsky had in mind the district.
  7. Ryaruav
    Ryaruav 25 November 2020 18: 50
    +2
    39 years ago, the city was filled with cadets from various schools, both military and civil, and this September is empty
  8. 3x3zsave
    3x3zsave 25 November 2020 19: 38
    +6
    Thank you, Alexey, for an excellent article about my city!
    I will note, meanwhile, that the main element of the restored Naval Cathedral, I consider the lists of the dead sailors, all, by year, by name.
    1. depressant
      depressant 25 November 2020 22: 02
      0
      They say that in the vicinity of St. Petersburg there are ruins of ancient structures made of giant stones tightly fitted to each other - just like the blocks in the buildings of the Aztecs and Mayans in South America. Some idle minds admit that Peter did not build the city of his own name from scratch, which in some cases used the foundations of the ruins for his buildings. In any case, I have seen photos of ancient walls near our northern capital on the Internet.
      And then there is a giant stone head. Tourists visit it and ask if Pushkin saw her)))
  9. Sergey Obraztsov
    Sergey Obraztsov 25 November 2020 20: 09
    +4
    Thank you very much for the excursion to atypical places in my hometown! I myself live in the south, in the Moskovskaya metro district (interestingly, in the Moscow district, on the Moscow avenue -_-) and bloggers and journalists rarely get here, although it is worth starting from the Moscow square, the territory of which is 130 sq. m, Victory Park and the monument to the defenders of Leningrad, and so on and so on ...
    1. 3x3zsave
      3x3zsave 25 November 2020 21: 40
      +4
      Inquire about the history of the building at Blagodatnaya 45 ...
  10. Radikal
    Radikal 25 November 2020 22: 55
    -2
    So I removed it ...
    What is this about, what kind of turn of speech? winked
  11. Radikal
    Radikal 25 November 2020 22: 56
    -2
    Quote: Ilya-spb
    I was this year at the naval parade. On the day of the Navy. Impressed!

    What sad Guns touched, hatches? Inspired ?! sad
  12. Tests
    Tests 26 November 2020 13: 33
    0
    Ryaruav (Ryaruav), dear, Military Academy cadets with epaulettes of all colors, as usual, all year round in the city, September 2020 was no exception. Cadets of "Makarovka" and students of Gorny - from civilian universities, in September 2020 were in the city.