Nosari of the Russian Empire


This story started already in the 1978 year. It was then that I accidentally stumbled upon a small essay in one of the Volgograd newspapers, which told how during summer vacations fishermen regularly come from different places to sit on the Uryupa shore of Khoper, catch some trifles (?!) And cook soup from them. And this ear is incomparable and amazing! It was also said in this essay that the Don Khoper tributary was then considered the cleanest river of the Soviet Union, that Uryupinsk has long been known for its downy goats, etc. But what a peppered fish and why an incomparable ear from it was not revealed ...

Much later, while reading one of the fishing luminaries, perhaps even Sabaneev, I found out that a ruff-nose was called a donkey (a tattlebug!) On the Don.

Well, I think he is a ruff, which is called - not a trophy. True, by that time had already heard and managed to make sure that ruffs for any soup is always a decoration. And in old Russian taverns, ear from ruffs was made to order, and if where it worked out well, then customers would roll it in with a shaft. Such a case, for example, is described in Vsevolod Krestovsky’s novel Petersburg Slums. The main action of this novel takes place in a tavern called "Ruffs" (in memory of the ear of the ruff, which he was once famous for).

Later, I came across information that when Peter the Great built ships on the Don, in Voronezh, in order to fight against the Turks of Azov, he was very fond of the ears from the nasal heads, which were caught nearby, cooked triple broth with spices and added pieces of sterlet . As if from that time, it was a tradition to send live spring roe-noses to the tsar’s table in barrels of water from the Don to the tsar’s table. cult fish. In this city, there is even a monument of the ruff-nose, created with public donations, in the winter they organize competitions for catching birds from the ice and telling non-resident tourists that the local taverns tasted and admired at one time both Pushkin and the hero of the Caucasus, General Yermolov.

Somewhere in the year in 2000 I decided to collect all possible information about the nose. And that's what turned out (in brief). The nosar is, of course, a ruff, but it grows much larger than the ruff, it looks different from its elongated nose. There are many other differences; ruff loves the calm water warmer, the nose adores the current, coolness, underwater keys, the ruff comes across any tackle, the nose practically only donkey, the ruff is a ubiquitous fish, the nose is the only inhabitant of rivers (!!) of the northern Black Sea coast. That is, it is found only in the Dniester, the Dnieper and the Don, even in the Danube it is already gone!

In the end, I fired up! I decided, as they are now joking, to quit everything - go to Uryupinsk, the unofficial capital of the Russian province, to finally cook my ear out of the stick. Starting to prepare this expedition, I called the Volgograd Regional Society of Hunters and Fishermen, say, would you recommend any Uryupian to help catch some greetings? From society, the answer to me is, what kind of fish is this ?! When explained, they became interested, requested their Uryupinsk branch. And from there the answer was that they had long since been forgotten in the “capital” Uryupinsk, as they had caught such a fish within it, it ended altogether.

This was a surprise! But the head of the fishermen’s society recalled that there was a research institute for lake and river fisheries in Volgograd, he gave me a telephone, by which I started calling immediately. And everything grew together, though not immediately.

In the scientific research institute I began to communicate with the employee Vasily Boldyrev, who knows the whole river fauna of our region, what is called face and heart, regularly traveling to the basic points of the scientific research institute on the region's reservoirs to control fish stocks. It was with him that we planned an expedition to the Don in April in the area near Kalach, where the Biryuks reliably fell into the control nets of the research institutes. Our training took virtually a whole year. For this year I received additional information from Vasily. Here they are.

In the Dniester and the Dnieper, the nasar has practically disappeared, it has been preserved everywhere only in the Don and its tributaries, the Khopra and the Dipper. But it is abundant only in the part of Khopra, which flows on the territory of the Voronezh Reserve. In 2010, during the dry season and the anomalous heat, the Biryuk on the Don had a terrible obstacle, heaps of dead noses floated along the river. Even the local Donians have already forgotten how a fishing fish of the nose has been, and they get angry if it gets into their nets, because it can seriously hurt when sampling fish. Yes, I myself remembered a conversation in the company of anglers. He told a Volgograd fisherman who recently bought a house in an abandoned coastal farm on the Don. In the Volgograd region, almost all of these hamlets became uninhabited. He once threw a donkey in the Don, and one caught a thorny fish, which he had never seen, and the local old man called it a bird carrier. That Volgograd and wanted to find out what this "gudgeon" such, and what is good? ..

In the end, one fine April morning, I and my friend went to the Don, to the point of the Research Institute of Lake and River Fisheries, where Vasily and his blue birches were waiting for us, which fell into the morning control net. The place where we arrived is just fantastic! You might think there was no man’s foot. However, close to the foundations of a long-abandoned Cossack farm. Don spread in spill, its steep bank was carved with beams, chalk mountains and real canyons. All this was overgrown with woodlands, shrubs and steppe grasses, the thyme smelled sharply ... We left the car near a small beam, on its opposite bank of the bushes, a faded fox was watching us with interest. A heron flew overhead, a black hawk hovered, looking for mice. Silence and beauty!

Soon arrived Basil. In a small bucket, a dozen or two noses of different size splashed around him; there was no small fry, only medium and large ones. Then I experienced the same feeling that once caused Ostap Bender to joyfully declare: "The dreams of an idiot came true."

We made a photo shoot with turquoise, and then we made a fire, and I started cooking my ear. First, I threw potatoes, onions, carrots, all ground into a boiling pot. Also, of course, salt, lavrushka and dill. When it all boiled, it was the turn of the noses. Before that, we gutted them, took out the gills and caviar. Washed the fish very gently and carefully, to preserve the slime covering the scales. This is the main technological moment in the ear of ruffs. It is the mucus that gives it the main taste dignity and difference. Naturally, the scales with ruffs are not removed. And in order that it does not spread on the ear, the fish is boiled, wrapped in gauze. This is how I did everything. He just threw the caviar into the pot, and tied the carcasses of the noses into gauze and carefully lowered them into the boiling broth. After 15 minutes ear has ripened. Of course, it was not triple and without a sterlet, like Emperor Peter the Great, but when we tasted it, we immediately understood those eccentrics that we had once thrown everything and went to Uryupinsk, in order to try this miraculous miracle !!

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  1. +8
    27 June 2018 06: 14
    Nosari of the Russian Empire
    just right to change the article: Rotans, the Russian Empire! in almost every puddle this damn normal fish in the Urals is getting smaller and smaller. although ... what to expect. rivers both robbed and robbed, "fish inspectors" work for their relatives, rent ponds, collect money, and the rivers ... who need them, there are different drains, and poachers, to the point of "everyone".
    1. +4
      27 June 2018 07: 09
      This is for sure - in the Ural rivers normal fish did not become. One bleak, but in the lakes - rotan ....
    2. +2
      27 June 2018 22: 15
      Quote: Andrey Yurievich
      less and less normal fish in the Urals. although ... what to expect. rivers both robbed and robbed, "fish inspectors" work for their relatives, rent ponds, collect money, and the rivers ... who need them, there are different drains, and poachers, to the point of "everyone".

      Go Yuryevich to Kolva or Birch. The places are beautiful, grayling is plentiful and even a time-lapse is available. Villages and villages have long been empty and dozens of miles with the stream, except for a couple of hermits and forest shaggy "prosecutors" with mosquitoes, not a soul. hi
  2. +3
    27 June 2018 07: 40
    It’s clear that the ruffian nosary has not yet completely exhausted ...
  3. +5
    27 June 2018 08: 08
    Of course, this is more for the “Hunting Newspaper”, but, as a patriotic article, it’s even nothing ...
    It was recalled that for 300 years the Tavatuisky fishermen sent a gift to 40 ruffs at the Romanov’s house ... with a total weight of exactly one pound. You’ll find two such lines in Tavatuya ...
    1. AUL
      28 June 2018 21: 50
      I agree that for VO the article looks somewhat unexpected, but I read it with great pleasure, since the fisherman himself with 65 years of experience. I still remember my first fishing trip in Kursk, near the Kirov bridge. Since then I can’t stop. And the last 10 retirement years I’ve only been fishing and I live, it’s better than going to polyclinics and social security centers!
  4. +2
    27 June 2018 08: 15
    and we dill last throw
    1. 0
      1 July 2018 03: 04
      We also cooked the Potato, then the fish, as it is about to boil, took it from the fire, onion, dill, lavrushka, into the pot, closed and set aside for 10-15 minutes ... With these rains it’s not even possible to predict when fishing will break out ... But in Amur, there’s something ruff, but the killer whale instead of him “fulfills” well. By the way, her ear is amazing in taste, you will cook it in the evening, and in the morning jellied meat in a bowler hat ...
  5. +7
    27 June 2018 08: 25
    If the Author did not press his head on “imperial motives”, she would not have been to the Military Forces. Neither Politicians, nor Armaments, History and even with a stretch. But, in general, it was interesting!
    1. +3
      27 June 2018 09: 50
      Natural topics are being touched more and more, which is not bad.
    2. +3
      27 June 2018 10: 09
      but in my opinion the article bears a normal patriotic meaning regardless of the names.
      and quite appropriate on the site.
      1. +2
        27 June 2018 14: 32
        Well, if only to awaken Love for the Homeland even more, then well, let it be!
        1. +1
          27 June 2018 16: 39
          glad that we understood each other fellow
  6. +5
    27 June 2018 09: 52
    I thank the author for a good start to the morning.
    But such articles must be printed on Saturday, otherwise there is no working mood! laughing
  7. +3
    27 June 2018 12: 46
    in Ob and Ina, such a fish is found here, they are called Kuomintang. a hundred years ago, a ruff
    1. 0
      1 July 2018 02: 58
      Quote: nivasander
      in Ob and Ine such a fish is found in our country they are called Kuomintangs

      Something I do not remember this. Ruff he was Ruff. Childhood and youth passed on the banks of the Ob River in Chinggis, ruffs were notable with the palm of our hand, we cooked guys ear with them, but so that they would call them Kuomintangs ... I don’t remember.
  8. +2
    27 June 2018 12: 54
    On the Dnieper, the nosars are still caught, but mainly in the winter.
  9. +2
    27 June 2018 14: 14
    Michael infection! You write good things about nature! Do you mark in Paustovsk? Confess!
  10. +2
    27 June 2018 14: 55
    And so that it does not spread over the ear, the fish is boiled, wrapped in gauze
    Only you can not use sterilized gauze, the ear will smell like a hospital. In general, any gauze leaves a faint smell of fabric.
    1. +1
      27 June 2018 19: 17
      Quote: 72jora72
      you can not use sterilized gauze, the ear will smell like a hospital. In general, any gauze leaves a faint smell of fabric.

      I cook a trifle in a colander.
      Sooner or later, a head-snake will start and gobble up the entire small predator like a meat grinder. You can’t get her out of the river.
      1. 0
        30 June 2018 05: 08
        Oh well then! Snakehead straight demon river! On Kapchagai (Alma-Ata) it is full, but did not knock out a small predator, such as perch and asp.
  11. +3
    27 June 2018 17: 05
    And there are nosars in the Desna. Fifteen years ago, such a fish was full there, it always came across a spider. It is still fun to pull him out; painful injections occurred from the thorns. Now it has become much less, but you can take a donka or a seine. In the Chernihiv region in the Novgorod-Seversky district, it is also called nasir or nosul.
  12. +1
    29 June 2018 12: 33
    Ear and from a simple ruff is good. You can not gut at all, just rinse well, and then strain through a sieve. From fishing (especially in winter) I take away all the ruffs. In occasion of the topic - not a topic for VO, my opinion is that everything related to our life is a topic for VO.
  13. 0
    1 July 2018 15: 14
    Maybe with such things, Putin’s camarilla will be kicked out.
  14. 0
    2 July 2018 00: 29
    In Khopre, there is no normal fish either. To catch with a palm, it is necessary to try very hard. We go to the ponds for crucian carp.

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